Teach me how to Bolt
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Does anyone out there want to teach me how to bolt? My goal is to help replace some bad anchors I've seen around the wasatch/desert when I come upon them but don't have any tools or experience in the matter. I don't think trial and error is the best way to go about this learning process. Thanks |
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Ask Andy at IME |
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This is really cool of Spencer to ask this. I'm pretty busy, however I can teach you in a couple of weeks. |
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Mikewhite on here does a ton of re-bolting / replacing stuff in the Wasatch for the ASCA and does it as good as anyone. Send him a message. |
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Stevie: I may pm you if you're serious about helping me learn when you get a chance. |
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mikewhite - all one word. Last visit 12 hours ago. |
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Stop by IME, anyone can give you the lowdown in 10 mins. |
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If you haven't found the instruction you need in a couple of week, please contact me. You can skip the beer or bring a bunch. Whatever ales ya |
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Mike and several others are talking about finally working on the Choss Garden re-bolting this weekend or next. Come join the fun because several old hats at this stuff will be there. I can tell you from experience that proper bolt removal can be tricky. Getting stuff done right is hard. |
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Thanks everyone for the kind works and offerings for help. Many people have contacted me with unselfish attitudes to help me learn. Great to see so many people willing to help out us newbs. Glad to hear the Choss Garden is up for replacement. Would love to come but have other family commitments. Hope to meet all of you and get some new hardware placed in the future. |
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Big Cottonwood would be a great place to learn bolting. The rock is dang hard, therefore the chances of botching the bolt lessen. The real crux is not getting the bit stuck and burning through eight bits putting in one route! If you want to bolt soft stone, it takes a little different approach. On the soft rock, I only use 1/2 rawls. I've found that the chances of ending up with a spinner increase with 3/8 bolts. Also, I never use "red head" wedge type anchors in soft stone. I know many hate them, but I still think angles hammered into holes have their place as well. Lately I've been doing the glue in thing due to the fact that I was given a ton of them. They take patience (which I do not have) and more care. Most importantly, don't put a bolt where you can get gear. |
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If someone doesn't bolt a set of chains at the top of "The Stone They Rejected" then I may just break down and do it myself - even though I've never bolted a route before. Every time I leave webbing w/ new biners and it gets stolen. I realize that you can get off via Goldfinger anchors but not as fun! |
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@ Skat: |
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zoso wrote:@ Skat: I hope you're trolling. Adding anchors isn't cool without FA permission. There's been too much of that in the last 5 years or so. Don't get us started.The FA was free soloed and has since been bolted. No, I'm not trolling. |
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It's a pretty easy walk off. About 25 seconds. |
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Skat B wrote:Every time I leave webbing w/ new biners and it gets stolen. I realize that you can get off via Goldfinger anchors but not as fun!Don't leave webbing w/ new biners? I mean, it's not like there's a tree to sling for any TRing you might want to do and the easiest walk-off in the canyon... Anchors added to that route will be taken down faster than your stuff gets stolen. |
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apross wrote:Stop by IME, anyone can give you the lowdown in 10 mins. Bring Beer.Andy knows bolting..it's in his genetic make-up. |
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Boissal wrote: Don't leave webbing w/ new biners? I mean, it's not like there's a tree to sling for any TRing you might want to do and the easiest walk-off in the canyon... Anchors added to that route will be taken down faster than your stuff gets stolen.So you're saying that if I put in permanent anchors into the rock at the base of the pine tree you are going to chock them off?? I'm trying to contribute to the climbing community here by making things more convenient for future climbers and I get threats instead? I wouldn't be altering or shortening the route in any way! So what if it's a simple walk off? By your logic I should chop off the four bolts on that line since the FA was a free solo onsight - having bolts would be an insult to Gary Olson, the FA! |
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rock and ice says all climbers should improve anchors and bolt new routes so it must be true |
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Skat B wrote: So you're saying that if I put in permanent anchors into the rock at the base of the pine tree you are going to chock them off?? I'm trying to contribute to the climbing community here by making things more convenient for future climbers and I get threats instead? I wouldn't be altering or shortening the route in any way! So what if it's a simple walk off? By your logic I should chop off the four bolts on that line since the FA was a free solo onsight - having bolts would be an insult to Gary Olson, the FA!I doubt I'd be the first to reach for the wrench if you put anchors in... But if I did stumble on chains next to a massive tree, a set of cracks and a walk off I'd certainly be glad to re-use them atop a route which actually benefits from fixed anchors. As far as chopping the bolts, maybe you should get a clue about the history of the route before running with your straw man argument. The retro-bolters weren't aware that the route had been climbed before. Gary stated that nobody in their right mind would have soloed the line, including himself when he came back to it. He has no qualms with the bolts. In your case you'd be adding an anchor with full knowledge that the route was established without since it has a perfectly safe natural or trad anchor and a ridiculously short walkoff. Way to miss the point of a thread about learning to bolt in order to eliminate unsafe hardware and bring in your entitled attitude about convenience anchors. Please refrain from using a power drill when you go up there, it's wilderness. |
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Skat B wrote: So you're saying that if I put in permanent anchors into the rock at the base of the pine tree you are going to chock them off?? I'm trying to contribute to the climbing community here by making things more convenient for future climbers and I get threats instead? I wouldn't be altering or shortening the route in any way! So what if it's a simple walk off? By your logic I should chop off the four bolts on that line since the FA was a free solo onsight - having bolts would be an insult to Gary Olson, the FA!Making climbs more convenient tends to do more harm then good to a route. There are more productive contributions you could make. |