How does a trad climber climb 1st & fail to rap? (RMR Rescue Call)

In the local newspaper - The Daily Camera.

"Climbers reach summit of 1st FlatIron at dark. They fail to find rap anchor so call RMR for help to get off summit."

How the hell do you make it the whole way up, building anchors along the way…
Then call RMR to get you down instead of just sacking up and leaving
your own gear to rap off of?

Sorry, it blows my mind! Please enlighten me oh great internet gods!

The life and times of gumbies

I saw this and was surprised there wasn't a roast fest. It's hard to say considering that it's relatively cut and dry in my opinion. If you make the summit it's almost in your face, and I've given rapping 101 in the dark by cell phone light (not recommended).

The only thing I can think of is they didn't have headlamps and missed the true summit? I'd certainly leave some gear before calling SAR, and just be up at 5am to collect it.

Yeah, I know I am being mean… BUT you are making rescue people leave there dinner with family for a silly thing, AND if you can climb 1000 ft. of technical rock, and only have a single rope rap to complete… Take some F^ckin' responsibility for yourselves! This is not an "emergency" situation. (At that time. Weather, clothing layers, injury, etc. are different.)

Surely there has got to be more to this. I'd rather leave a small amount of gear behind than squander public resources when someone else in the area might be in real danger. And of course the guarantee of getting flamed here and in the media.

I hope they make a generous donation to the RMR.

MP is pretty popular and it's a relatively small community. Surely someone here knows the people involved...

A gear anchor probably isn't required most of the time to get down from the first either. The first time I climbed the first, my partner and I didn't figure out the whole false summit thing and ended up throwing a sling over a boulder that wasn't going anywhere and rapping down. I can't imagine calling rescue for this.

Now only if they had made a YouTube video of it lol. But seriously people... RMR is ran completely by volunteers. This is not a govt agency. These people have lives, families, ect. If your climbing after work, take a fkn headlamp, and don't try to head to a formation you've never been too. Spoiler alert: It gets cold and dark when the sun goes down.

"Lack of planning on your part does not constitute an emergency on mine."

Write that down.

I think a fair payment for this sort of incident should be donation of your rack to RMR, to be divvied up among the volunteers.

fossana wrote:I think a fair payment for this sort of incident should be donation of your rack to RMR, to be divvied up among the volunteers.

I heard more details of the story. They did not do their originally planned route, got off route and it got dark. They had a headlamp ,but the batteries were dead, were uncomfortable traversing back in the dark to get back on route ,and were also uncomfortable rappelling on what I think was overhung rock at their stopping point. Basically weren't comfortable bailing in total darkness and didn't have warm clothes either and were worried about getting hypothermia or getting hurt getting off on their own in the dark. They appreciated the rescue and are a bit embarrassed too that they needed help, and by no means wanted to abuse the system.

In that case we totally forgive them. They did the right thing...after seventeen wrong and disrespectful things.

Not allowing enough time for a new route.
Not having two working headlamps.
No extra cloths.
Not having the appropriate skills for the route.
Having their phone, though.
But mostly not enough respect for climbing.

Respect. Where did it go. Climbing used to be like a brotherhood or sisterhood. Much respect was imparted to the new climber by his her mentor. It was like a martial art. Sacred commands were exchanged before every pitch and a respect for the rock and your partner was always present.

Today any smo with a go pro and access to mo pro on their ipho can give it a go. Yet these same people barely even check each others knots. Is anything sacred anymore?!

These guys are not giving up their racks and are not having to pay a dime. I think they should have to wear a scarlet letter for one year as punishment and an example to other climbers.

Rant over.

Now let's not get maudlin... these guys have been educated in a way no one would prefer (especially they) vs having a mentor. They will now know more and pass on this to others (other inexperienced people most likely), stuff like this reinforces learning. And no one got hurt. Shame em' and move on.

I bet this was just their 'warm up' route for their ultimate goal... EVEREST!!!! ;)

BTW, my friends did almost this exact same thing years ago in Red Rocks in December... no warm clothes, one head lamp, new route, got off route, got dark. They spent the night on a ledge sitting on their coiled rope until dawn.

Calling for a rescue should involve one of the following: broken bone, blood, blindness or frostbite.

well said, Greg D.

Good point Col. Angus.... It's safe to learn under a mentor... but times I nearly died made a far greater impression upon me.