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Eagle Feather (a.k.a. South Face)
5.10 YDS 6b French 20 Ewbanks VII- UIAA 19 ZA E2 5b British
Avg: 3.5 from 42
votes
Routes in Eagle Plume Tower
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Ardbeg, Vaca & Beyond T A3- |
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Eagle Feather (a.k.a. South Face) T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Fuzzy Crockpot T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c A2+ |
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Milk Crates From Hell T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c A3 R |
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| Type: | Trad, 350 ft (106 m), 4 pitches, Grade III |
| FA: | Bill Forrest, Frank Luptom, 1976 FFA- Craig Kenyon, Jeff Cristol, 1989 |
| Page Views: | 10,603 total · 50/month |
| Shared By: | Ben Kiessel on Nov 6, 2006 |
| Admins: | slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, D C |
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Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek
Details
WET ROCK: Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN MOAB during or after rain.
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring.
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring.
Description
Pitch 1: Begin up a loose 5.8 crack, then a 5.7 off-width to a large ledge.
Pitch 2: Climb broken rock to a small ledge at the base of a small, clean, tight dihedral. Climb the dihedral then traverse a few feet right to a thin crack(blue alien), that guards the anchors.(5.10)
Pitch 3:Climb up some loose rock in the right crack to a dihedral ramp with fun jamming. Then climb up a loose bedding seam to a pin and traverse left to a belay on top of the seam. This is the best pitch on the route.(5.10)
Pitch 4:Climb clean dihedral above to the summit.(5.9)
Descent:Rappel the route. Desert Rock IV says you can also rappel LOLA.
Pitch 2: Climb broken rock to a small ledge at the base of a small, clean, tight dihedral. Climb the dihedral then traverse a few feet right to a thin crack(blue alien), that guards the anchors.(5.10)
Pitch 3:Climb up some loose rock in the right crack to a dihedral ramp with fun jamming. Then climb up a loose bedding seam to a pin and traverse left to a belay on top of the seam. This is the best pitch on the route.(5.10)
Pitch 4:Climb clean dihedral above to the summit.(5.9)
Descent:Rappel the route. Desert Rock IV says you can also rappel LOLA.
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