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Gavin Echterling
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Mar 15, 2014
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Austin, TX
· Joined Aug 2013
· Points: 970
Hello all! I will be traveling to Venice in October. With the Dolomites a few hour drive from there, I'd really love to get out there and climb for a day. For this trip, I'd like to travel light and avoid bringing a full rack. So I'm on the lookout for a quality several pitch bolted/well protected route where all I'd need to bring is a handful of draws and a rope or two. As far as grade, I'd like to keep it between UIAA V and VI+ but I would be comfortable with a pitch or two up to VII-/VII. I've done a good bit of research already, but information on the type of climb I'm looking for seems a bit sparse. I've been reading through "Classic Dolomite Climbs" but the info on protection is vague for the most part. I have found this route, which seems like what I'm looking for, but I'd also like to have a few others options to consider. planetmountain.com/english/… Any and all information provided is hugely appreciated. I'd like to be as well informed as possible when I head out there to make my trip as efficient as possible. Thanks in advance! Gavin
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Dave Meyers
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Mar 15, 2014
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Evergreen, CO
· Joined May 2006
· Points: 537
If you check out the Arco area under Italy here and go to mountainproject.com/v/placc… There are some good 4 - 10 pitch moderates. There's a walk off so only one rope is required. The routes are bolted, but you could get some gear in on some of the more sporty pitches.
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Jerry Willis
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Mar 15, 2014
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Carbondale, CO
· Joined Mar 2007
· Points: 0
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Gavin Echterling
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Mar 15, 2014
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Austin, TX
· Joined Aug 2013
· Points: 970
Thanks for the replies, very much appreciated! Jerry: Did you jump on either Nikibi or Re Artu? Those are two that I've been closely looking at. If so, how was the view from the summits? I'm a hobbyist photographer as well and wouldn't mind getting a good landscape shot worthy of a large print.
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mrcn
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Mar 17, 2014
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Unknown Hometown
· Joined Feb 2014
· Points: 0
Gavin, there's German book "The best alpine sport routes in north dolomites from 5c to 8a" athesiabuch.it/list?back=44… but I think october may be a little late for many of them. You may get good weather or snow at approach and ice on descent many routes end over 2500m. For short multipitch you can try Cinque Torri I would second Dave about Arco area ( Sarca Valley ). Placche Zebrate has over 20 multipitch sport routes in the main sector. Other areas are Piccolo Dain and Colodri. There's guidebook in english versantesud.it/en/shop/arco… (previously called Sarca Walls). I suggest to use double ropes if possible. There's high risk of falling rocks in Dolomites (and Placche Zebrate too ) + abseiling is much faster
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Nick Votto
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Mar 17, 2014
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CO, CT, IT
· Joined Jul 2008
· Points: 320
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ddriver
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Mar 17, 2014
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SLC
· Joined Jul 2007
· Points: 2,084
October may well be too late in the season. At least, the one time I was there in September it all went to hell, and I've gotten snow in Cortina proper in August. I'd second Arco as a reasonable alternative should the weather not pan out for you. Similar drive time and a worthy destination. There are lots of multi-pitch routes in the immediate area, almost all are sport-bolted. Vallee di Sarca is what you would want to research. Worthwhile crags right next to town include Colidri, Monte Colt, and Mandrea, but there is a ton there. All the Dolomites routes I've done have required a rack, other than 1-3 pitch sporties at Cinque Torri.
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Gavin Echterling
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Mar 20, 2014
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Austin, TX
· Joined Aug 2013
· Points: 970
Thanks all for the great information. I really appreciate it and this should help out a lot!
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