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Starting a Trad Rack

Original Post
ckersch · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2013 · Points: 161

Well, not starting, per se, but expanding it beyond stoppers and hexes. (The discerning choice for the undergrad with no money.)

I finally have a job that can pay for a full trad rack, and wanted to get some feedback on what I'm planning on getting before plunking down some cash. Right now, I'm looking at:

BD X4 Camalot #.1 - .4
BD C4 Camalot #.5 - 3
Tricams?

I've heard that tricams pink and red are somewhat critical for New England climbing. Not sure if I should get them right away or wait to learn to place cams better?

Does this look like a decent starting rack for New England climbing? Probably lots of Conn/Mass climbing, since I'm based in Providence. Should I go for tricams as well? If I do, dyneema or nylon? Should I double up on big cams? Small cams? I've got roughly four trad leads under my belt and a bunch of top rope anchors, (only one semi-lead in the north east) so I'm not really sure what's best.

GhaMby Eagan · · Heaven · Joined Oct 2006 · Points: 385

Sounds like a great way to start!

Have you seen these prices: climbhigh.com/index.php/bla…

Paul Zander · · Bern, CH · Joined Oct 2012 · Points: 739

I'd double up on the 0.4 to 2 range before getting any tricams.

Jeff McLeod · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2011 · Points: 45

Aliens instead of X4s if you're going to spend the money.

Double up on those C4s, at least .75-2

Don't forget a bunch of shoulder length slings :)

Spencer BB · · Pasadena, CA · Joined Dec 2013 · Points: 23

I've been climbing in the north east now for 2 years (mostly gunks moderates) and started out with a single set of C4's from 0.5 to 3 and the blue, yellow, and orange mastercam. I have since added the red and green c3 (red is great, don't place the green much) and double up on the 0.75 and 2 c4.

I'm not sure about harder grades (above 5.7/5.8) but I think you will be fine on moderates with what you described. If you want to save a bit for now, i would say hold off on the smaller x4's

Also, not sure if you have seen this thread ( mountainproject.com/v/bd-x4…) but I saw the glue problem they describe ( mountainproject.com/v/10841…) on a bunch of x4's last time I was at EMS which could be annoying.

ckersch · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2013 · Points: 161

Thanks for the advice!

For the aliens, are the totem aliens or the fixe ones better? Or are they about the same?

GhaMby Eagan · · Heaven · Joined Oct 2006 · Points: 385

I personally think that Aliens are great for Aid climbing, but too delicate for trad climbing due to the softer aluminum on the cams.

I have Metolius Mastercams which I think are great, but the x4s look good too. I would just get whichever is cheaper!

K R · · CA · Joined Jan 2014 · Points: 50

Totems claim to be improved and many agree. Good luck finding them in stores. Their supply is lacking. I had to order from England.

ckersch · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2013 · Points: 161

Updating my list as follows, with a little more research:

BD C4s - #.5 - 3 (x2)
Totem Aliens - #.65, .75, .95 (seem to correspond to X4 .3 - .5?)

Jburton · · Ogden · Joined Jan 2014 · Points: 0

Tricams are a waste of money.

Jburton · · Ogden · Joined Jan 2014 · Points: 0

And I'd say look into the Metolius TCUs for the smaller stuff instead of Aliens.

Happiegrrrl · · Gunks · Joined Dec 2005 · Points: 60
LCC-Climber wrote:Tricams are a waste of money.
A tricam is less than half the cost of a BD cam, and slots securely into spots that a cam won't.

They require though, can't just slam 'em in and think you're good to go. I think that the only way they could be considered a waste of money is if someone buys them, doesn't take the time to learn how to place them and thus never uses them. Or, climbs with people who don't know how to clean them. Left-behinds...yeah,that is a waste of money!

I've never had to leave gear behind, but I know it does happen, and I'd sure rather it be a couple tricams than more expensive pieces.
Gunkiemike · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2009 · Points: 3,492

Let me be the 4th person to implicitly suggest that you do NOT buy two #3 Camalots. Use the $ elsewhere.

Jburton · · Ogden · Joined Jan 2014 · Points: 0
Happiegrrrl wrote: A tricam is less than half the cost of a BD cam, and slots securely into spots that a cam won't.
And they also require a solid knowledge of gear placements to place properly. Not something I would recommend to a new trad climber.
Happiegrrrl · · Gunks · Joined Dec 2005 · Points: 60

Oh, now THAT I am going to disagree with!

You don't need to learn the basics of gear placements "on the job." A person should be well practiced in gear placements before they have to rely on their gear.

When I take a new person out, I teach them how to clean gear on the ground before hand, and the way I teach is by explaining and showing, and then handing them the rack. If they actually place the gear, they will have a better understanding as to how to clean it.

csproul · · Pittsboro...sort of, NC · Joined Dec 2009 · Points: 330
DoesNotCare wrote:I personally think that Aliens are great for Aid climbing, but too delicate for trad climbing due to the softer aluminum on the cams. I have Metolius Mastercams which I think are great, but the x4s look good too. I would just get whichever is cheaper!
Too delicate for trad climbing, but ok for aiding? My gear gets way more abused from aid climbing than from trad (free) climbing. I'll agree that the Alien lobes get thrashed pretty easily compared to other cams.
Jburton · · Ogden · Joined Jan 2014 · Points: 0
Happiegrrrl wrote:Oh, now THAT I am going to disagree with! You don't need to learn the basics of gear placements "on the job." A person should be well practiced in gear placements before they have to rely on their gear. When I take a new person out, I teach them how to clean gear on the ground before hand, and the way I teach is by explaining and showing, and then handing them the rack. If they actually place the gear, they will have a better understanding as to how to clean it.
But it can also be said that a fair number of people out there who are starting out figure it out on their own. I know myself and an early climbing partner did that as we didn't have anyone to mentor us. We ended up just fine. So, not knowing his situation, background, or experience - other than his request for opinions on a beginning trad climbing rack, tricams would be something he might want to hold off on. Then when he's all experienced and seasoned, he can figure out for himself that they're shit pieces! HA! To each their own I guess......Be safe out there!
mbakerwh · · Gallup, NM · Joined Feb 2013 · Points: 0

Go with a single set of .3-2 camalots, get some C3s (maybe a red and a yellow), and double up in .5, .75, and 1. Then spend the rest of your dough on biners to rack them--Get neutrinos or Oz biners of the same color as the cams. People can laugh all they want (I know some people do) but I honestly find that when I'm pumped getting a cam off my harness requires half the time if it's racked with the proper color biner. Add a pink tricam and a red if you want, add them to your stopper rack. They have their uses.

wivanoff · · Northeast, USA · Joined Mar 2012 · Points: 674
LCC-Climber wrote: And they also require a solid knowledge of gear placements to place properly. Not something I would recommend to a new trad climber.
The OP stated that he currently leads on stoppers and hexes. Do they not require "a solid knowledge of gear placements to place properly"?

OP: To expand your rack, I'd get one set of BD C4 #.5 - 3 Don't double up on the 3. Double some of the others as you find the need. For smaller cams I like TCUs or Aliens/Totems

I like Tri-Cams and usually carry at least the pink (.5) and red (1.0) They're cheap compared to cams. You can decide for yourself without a big investment.
Trevor. · · Boise, ID · Joined Apr 2012 · Points: 830

I'd recommend holding off on the .1 x4 and maybe the .2 as well. I definitely don't trust the smallest of micro cams all that much, they can be tricky to place effectively and easy to get stuck, and you can often find a better nut placement in thin cracks. That said, you'll eventually want really tiny cams, but for now you're probably better off getting doubles in the more useful sizes. Of course this all varies depending on where you climb...

Ryan Watts · · Bishop, CA · Joined Apr 2013 · Points: 25

Essential: Single set of BD C4s from .5-3

If you can afford it: Single set of small cams. Pick whatever brand you want they all work. Mastercams: Blue-Red or Aliens: Green-Red would be my choice.

Don't worry about microcams just yet. Doubles you will want eventually but for now just use your hexes as doubles or borrow from your partners rack. Pink are Red tricam ate useful but only as a supplement (IMO).

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Northeastern States
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