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Routes in b. Gelsa to Moe (closure)
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5.8 Crack Climb T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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After You T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R |
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Back to the future T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Bird Cage T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Birdbrain T,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a X |
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Birdland T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Boob Job T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Boogey Man T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b R |
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El Camino T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R |
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El Kabong T,TR 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b R |
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Elder Cleavage Direct T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Eraserhead T,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Farewell to Arms T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Farewell to Fingers T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R |
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Fat and Weak T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Grease Gun Groove T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Lonely Challenge T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Loose Goose T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Moe T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Pain Strain T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a PG13 |
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Predator T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R |
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Princess Leia T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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Revolving Eyeballs T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b X |
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Road Warrior T,TR 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R |
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Roseland T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Shitface T,TR 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R |
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Silver Bullet T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Slammin' T,TR 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b PG13 |
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To Be Or Not To Be T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R |
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To Have or Have Not T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b R |
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Transcontinental Nailway T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Tulip Mussel Garden T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Up Yours T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Wildmere T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R |
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Yum Yum Yab Yum T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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| Type: | Trad, 70 ft (21 m) |
| FA: | Alex Lowe, Russ Clune, Dan McMillan (1982) |
| Page Views: | 2,082 total · 14/month |
| Shared By: | Jon Clark on Apr 23, 2012 |
| Admins: | Morgan Patterson, M Santisi, chris vultaggio |
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Description
This is a rather serious lead. Most will TR (easily setup after leading Transcon). However, for the solid 5.11 leader it can provide a very memorable and rewarding onsight experience.
Start at Roseland and traverse left along a ramp until you are a bit right of Transcon. Head straight up the steep face above, and pull a difficult and somewhat bizarre mantle maneuver (crux) to a stance. Climb the face (second crux) up and right. From here, steel nerves and a marginal placement in a shallow, flared horizontal will get you to the anchor.
Start at Roseland and traverse left along a ramp until you are a bit right of Transcon. Head straight up the steep face above, and pull a difficult and somewhat bizarre mantle maneuver (crux) to a stance. Climb the face (second crux) up and right. From here, steel nerves and a marginal placement in a shallow, flared horizontal will get you to the anchor.
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