Ian, I was wondering if you know about the route left of center about an inch in this photo that goes up an arete for several bolts before traversing left then continuing up the face for a few more bolts to the anchor. I did an on-sight of it some time ago and was proud that I pulled it off (toes were sore). If I remember right I placed a finger sized cam before the bolts started and it was roughly 80'.
That route you refer to is the "Bearded Lunch Lady", named after a real life character that used to flip burgers at the infamous "Lunch Box". She was a real charmer and made an impression on us after we had burgers the night of the FA in the early '00s. I remembered it had some really fun moves down low and on the arete but was a bit contrived as it merged with a route we had put up just left - "The "Walking Enigma".. that one is a real toe banger too!! Both of those routes are on the topos I scanned from my journal and put on MP this week. I think they both are hard .10, but it's been a long time since I redpointed them. Maybe a 5.11 move or two on the Bearded Lunch Lady (when you merge to the Walking Enigma). Your feedback on ratings is great and helps with a consensus! The best route in that zone though is the "Groove Tube"! There are others too that want to proj some time…there's a cool splitter with some face climbing below that should go, but the face will take some more ground-up sketchiness :-) Cheers, Ian