I have some soft sandstone adventures on the horizon and angled pitons are something I want to explore. I would really like to hear from some people who have placed them, but also from those climbers out there who clip them regularly. I am using a hand drill and have both 1/2" and 3/8" bits, both 6" long. What size angles do I need? Any hidden challenges regarding placement?
Right on, thanks Richard! I think I'm mostly concerned about climbing myself into a situation where I have a great stance but totally crap rock. It would at least be something to lower off of and run away in shame, no?
In poor ( Ojai) rock, it's extra important to clean out the hole for bolts of any size ..pins.. not so much. but as richard said about the $$$ if you have some 1/2 angles, then maybe...
You could start with a rap station to check things out and then remove/patch after if it sucks
Thanks for the replies. Please note though that thread title is "All About Angled Pitons"...I still would like to learn more about them. Richard it sounds like you've placed some angles. Can you explain why the hole needs to be drilled more than once? Do all angles use epoxy? Thanks for your responses.
The "best " way to place a drilled piton involves a tapered hole..sometimes a 1/4" the farthest in and then widening out towards the surface..This gives max contact of the pin...
Of coarse way back when ring angle pins were around, the kinda molded to the rock because the metal was a softer steel...Garden Of the Gods has thousands of these as well as many utah areas.
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