Specter
5.11d YDS 7a French 24 Ewbanks VIII UIAA 25 ZA E5 6a British
Avg: 4 from 38 votes
Type: | Sport, 100 ft (30 m) |
FA: | Clay Watson, Brian Smoot, Mike Perkins |
Page Views: | 5,535 total · 33/month |
Shared By: | tenesmus on Sep 4, 2010 |
Admins: | Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, D C |
June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.
The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.
Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault as well as the Glen boulders that have been traditionally closed will remain closed.
Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.
Read More:
saltlakeclimbers.org/climbe…
Description
This is a nice line. A steep crux, a vertical crux, an off-vertical crux. Some of the best, most crisp crimps I've laid hands on.
AKA: Black Power
Location
Look for the black chain/bolt anchor below the black streak. You won't be able to see the climber on the upper crux from here, making sure your belay skills aren't only based on sight.
When we climbed Apparition, we added a two bolt belay about 25 feet left on a ledge that allows you to see the climber for the whole climb. I haven't belayed Specter from over there so let us know if this option is helpful. The comments below indicate that this kind of sucks so it's not a good idea. That said, if you go over there, please watch your rope carefully as you lower and clean (especially the bottom bolt).
If watching your climber is super necessary, and you had 2 ropes, you could also belay from one of the bolts down on My God, Your God. At least all that rope stretch will make the catch soft.
19 Comments