Starved Rock Ice 2013/14

Doug Hemken wrote: Sounds like we should be letting the Park know how we feel.

We have, Doug, and are keeping in close touch with the powers that be....

george wilkey wrote:looks like i'll have to come back up there to get any more ice, suppose to be near 70 everyday for us next week.

George, we have near 50 predicted for Thursday with lots of rain, but I don't think that will damage our massive ice pile. WE have a MF'n load of ice yet, and over 7 inches of fresh snow on it yesterday to 'insulate, or refreeze. I think we should be pretty dam good by the weekend of predicted 20 degree temps once again...Might be slick all over at the base, but what else are crampons for?

Looks like no climbing at SRSP this wknd since heavy rains are predicted... maybe..

Juggler wrote:Looks like no climbing at SRSP this wknd since heavy raions are predicted...

Not sure why that would be. Are they 'closing' it up officially? Thought they left it to the climbers to decide conditions now. Ice looks massive in recent pics posted by climbers, it shouldn't all fall down from one day of rain on Thurs. And every seasoned climber over the years has climbed there THROUGH the wet waterfall action; that's what Gor-tex clothing is for! Only a totally flooded out river and canyon floor area keeps us from access to the ice.

Woodchuck ATC wrote: Not sure why that would be. Are they 'closing' it up officially-NO? Thought they left it to the climbers to decide conditions now. Ice looks massive in recent pics posted by climbers, it shouldn't all fall down from one day of rain on Thurs. And every seasoned climber over the years has climbed there THROUGH the wet waterfall action; that's what Gor-tex clothing is for! Only a totally flooded out river and canyon floor area keeps us from access to the ice.

With 50 degrees and rain Thursday, it will be VERY wet and flowing heavy(if you want to get soaked and cold you can Mark- go for it) and not in very good shape till next week after the next cold spell--- just my opinion on it. 3 warm days and rain will take its toll.... though they may not fall down...

I'm just judging from the recent pics of huge ice, and the experience of 30 past years climbing in the severe 60+ temp meltdowns waaay warmer and wetter than these 2 days will be. IF the upper streams suddenly melt out all the snowfields above and run off fast, it might see some damage but doubt it will fall down.

looking for conditions.
conditions were excellent until yesterday's rain.
anyone been there today? (Friday 21 feb, 2014?)

bob o'brien wrote:looking for conditions. conditions were excellent until yesterday's rain. anyone been there today? (Friday 21 feb, 2014?)

should know about SRSP Sunday...

What does the silo have to do with conditions at Starved Rock?

Tonti has lots of running water.
Lasalle same.
Not sure they will hold up.

The river is so high that its covering the trail along the lake from the parking lot. Could likely pass on the bank but we didn't try.

marcin1 wrote:What does the silo have to do with conditions at Starved Rock? Tonti has lots of running water. Lasalle same. Not sure they will hold up. The river is so high that its covering the trail along the lake from the parking lot. Could likely pass on the bank but we didn't try.

I'm guessing alot of running water in most canyons, with rain and snow melt. Hopefully someone is out there to see/report on what it all did to the ice conditions. Ice might be nice, but canyon floors might have flooded too deep to hike in to base of climb. And if the ice at base of climb has melted through,,then you got those deep plunge pools to deal with and the associated weakening of stability of ice to stay stanging. You never know. All is cold ahead for this week, so whatever bad has already happened in past 3 days...we need a first hand report from someone out there checking it out.

As of 2/25:

Wildcat: very climbable on left side, with some new surface ice having formed with the recent melt/freeze cycle. Right side has thickened up considerably since last month, but center and right are pretty wet right now. Climbable, but bring the goretex.

Ottawa: Took a lot of damage with the recent thaw. Two large longitudinal grooves in the upper portion with a good bit of running water underneath them. The actual fall is far thinner than 2 weeks ago. Hopefully will thicken up a bit over the next few days, but I would not climb it until it does.

Didn't check out Tonti or Lasalle.

Most of the pools are pretty frozen still. Couple of thin spots around the bases, but nothing to worry about.

BenCooper wrote:As of 2/25: Wildcat: very climbable on left side, with some new surface ice having formed with the recent melt/freeze cycle. Right side has thickened up considerably since last month, but center and right are pretty wet right now. Climbable, but bring the goretex. Ottawa: Took a lot of damage with the recent thaw. Two large longitudinal grooves in the upper portion with a good bit of running water underneath them. The actual fall is far thinner than 2 weeks ago. Hopefully will thicken up a bit over the next few days, but I would not climb it until it does. Didn't check out Tonti or Lasalle. Most of the pools are pretty frozen still. Couple of thin spots around the bases, but nothing to worry about.

Thanks Ben for the update! BE sure to go on climbingcentral.com and add yourself and updates there too in ice forums.

Ottawa on 3/1/14. Standing water around the base, and running water on the right and middle lines (Gore-Tex mandatory). Still definitely climbable, though not sure how much longer it will last. Heard from another group that Wildcat is in similar condition.

Ottawa 3/1/14

Ottawa 3/1/14

WOW,,,that right side doesn't often form good enough to climb from bottom straight up. Did you get on all of it yesterday.? Looks great..thanks for sharing the pics,,reminds me of some awesome ice 20+ years ago in Ottowa canyon.
Nothing more fun than a spring meltdown, in full body Goretex and heading straight up through the streams of water on styro ice.

Woodchuck ATC wrote:WOW,,,that right side doesn't often form good enough to climb from bottom straight up. Did you get on all of it yesterday.?

Yep, climbed pretty much every variation. The right side had the best ice, but the first 15 feet or so were like taking a shower.

We ended up dropping that rope through the hole, climbing the back of the falls (good ice there too!) and emerging from the hole.

The back side
The front side, pulling a Miley

Rebirth

Great pics,,deja vu Zack ! Back in about 85 in late March meltdown, we started lead on backside and got to about same spot, then chopped a hole to the front(long rectangle space in pic), then came out front, face to face into the flowing water pouring down the falls, pounded in a quick fat Snarg, then a few feet more and a solid screw, and up the finish. Was one of the most fun leads I ever did at SRSP under wicked conditions...and we didn't have classy nice tools back then either!!! Looks like you made the most of a great day,,,post up any other great pics of the climb!

through the 'window' and lead out in waterfall to the top.

Looks like a pretty epic climb... I might have to get down there for the big melt!

Bill Lenz on Wildcat- 30 years ago!

Bill Lenze SRSP Feb 1984

Bill Lenze leading Wildcat- Feb 1984

Sangdahl staying warm- "courage in our rucsacs" as Jim Bridwell once wrote....

It was a cold winter... Steve Sangdahl and a medicinal dram