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 ADVANCED
Black and Tan
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
??? S 
Beauty Pageant S 
Bed Head S 
Block Party S 
Breakin' the Law S 
Crime and Punishment S 
Da Riddler S 
Drunken Speed Fisherman S 
Dull Boy S 
Glutton for Punishment S 
Jumanji S 
Magic Carpet Ride S 
Minus Five S 
Pangs of Ignorance S 
Redolence S 
Resolve S 
Shades of Grey S 
Smoking Drum S 
Unknown, 5.11 S 
Unknown, 5.7 S 

??? 

YDS: 5.12- French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: ???
Page Views: 86
Submitted By: Shawn Heath on Mar 3, 2014

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BETA PHOTO: The bolts and anchor. Sorry for the crappy drawing...

In critical habitat area for the Desert Tortoise

Description 

This route starts to the left of Glutton for Punishment, following a couple of bolts through the same initial slab. Again, the bolts are to the left of those of Glutton for Punishment. The slab start is maybe around 5.9 and very sharp and precise. At the third bolt you'll be mostly standing up straight and by the 4th you'll be slightly hanging from your arms. Clip the 5th bolt and rest at the massive jugs between the 4th and 5th bolt. The crux is well protected by that 5th bolt and the 6th bolt has a great clipping hold. The climbing eases up to the anchor.

Location 

On the same slab as and to the left of Glutton for Punishment.

Protection 

6 bolts to hook anchors


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