Great to finally see some beta. Did "Arm and Hammer" a few years back and loved it! It also scared me a good amount. Not sure it was 10+, but I agree about the crux location.
I also did route "Redemption Arete" but started up the steep hand crack just right of "Arm and Hammer" to gain the bolts. It felt more like hard 5.10 with a R or PG-13 rating to get to the bolts. When I did it, there was a stuck #1 Camalot toward the top of the hand crack.
I LOVE it out here. Thank you for your efforts at the pump house.
Glad you have been able to enjoy the Dolo! "Arm and Hammer" was just like its name states on the FA- swinging leads back and forth with hand-drills, some hooks and the occasional stance... taking a few whips too. Did it with my John Kelly in 1997 or so. Been a while since I climbed it but remember the upper crux being the airiest! Noticed a bolt (w/ green hanger) was added up top too a few years back…? What's your thought on the rating?
Other favorites at the Pump House are: Groove Tube**, Sunday Stroll***, Cinco Domingo**, and Rizlas' Crack**. As for the Redemption Aręte - that #1 cam has been there for years.. I noticed it was fixed after my first go up the thing, and we used the other side of that opening block (well-protected 5.7) before setting off up the buggy arete. There's quite the crazy, long story on that one!!.. but let's just say - the name suits big time!
Also highly recommend the "10 Mile Crag" and the Wind Tower right across the river! Both are well worth the rough drive and hike. Great camping below too!
I felt like Arm and Hammer was more like .10a or b. Jess, my second thought 9+. Maybe just felt strong on that trip. Definitely heads up though, I had no intentions of falling! I think the added bolt was in place when I did it.
Does the 10 Mile Crag campsite have a boulder there with a chipped hold problem on it? Thank you for answering so many questions.
Thanks for the feedback on the rating. The whips I referred to were on the second crux as I attempted to drill the 5th bolt. It was a quick learning curve though and nothing like natural consequence for getting your shit in line. My buddy John was a real motivator back then, and he placed the last 4 bolts to the top on stances alone. He'd be sure to yank that green bolt if he ever saw it there...but has bigger fish to fry now and lives in Anchorage, AK. Still does a lot of exploratory climbing too!
I didn't lead and redpoint Arm and Hammer until a year later, but when climbing it with just draws, I remembered thinking it felt a lot easier but still had some difficult smearing. Not 5.9 in my book, and definitely not 5.9 when compared with the 5.9 right next to it…?
As for the camping you asked about…I can't remember if there is a boulder there or not, but it's a really good, flat, and open spot right under the crag. The landmark I always look for is a Mexican Hat high above cliff on the opposite side of the river. The Wind Tower is right below this feature.