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Forest Lawn
5.9+ YDS 5c French 17 Ewbanks VI UIAA 17 ZA E1 5a British
Avg: 3.7 from 136
votes
Routes in Bastion Towers
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20 Little Black Dogs T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Chalkdust Torture T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Decline of Western Civilization, The S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Forest Lawn T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Green Arete T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R |
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Jive Turkeys T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b PG13 |
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Maw, The T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Pair a Grins T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Standard Bagel T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
| Unsorted Routes: | |
| Type: | Trad, 300 ft (91 m), 3 pitches |
| FA: | First pitch FA: Mike McEwan and Gary Axen, 1975. Complete ascent: Mike McEwen and Dave Baker, 1976 |
| Page Views: | 19,168 total · 89/month |
| Shared By: | Brad Schierer on Jul 17, 2006 · Updates |
| Admins: | adrian montaño, Greg Opland, Brian Boyd, JJ Schlick, Kemper Brightman, Luke Bertelsen |
Access Issue: Read this Access Note!
Details
For the latest information, go to this link: fs.usda.gov/recarea/coronad…
Please take note of the request for climbers to avoid disturbing raptors if at all possible.
Self-policing our behavior is MUCH better than an outright ban!
CASA Page on Raptors for more information: theclimbershome.org/breedin…
Douglas Ranger District Tel: 520.364.6816.
Description
The first pitch is the classic pitch and gets the stars. It is a classic layback crack in a left facing corner. Pumpy and steep for about 45 feet or so, then the angle lessens. Finish at a two bolt belay. There is a thank God rest just when you need it.
The second pitch is a full rope length up a grungy 5.7 crack. It's okay, but not up to the quality of the first pitch. A double rope rap from the top of pitch one will get you to the ground if you don't like the looks of pitch 2. The second pitch ends at tied off chickenheads for a belay (hope you brought your shoulder length slings).
The final pitch is best described as low-angle chickenhead hiking.
Descent: Rap by climbing onto the summit block/knob just to your right as you top out. Once on top, head down the ramp to a set of Metolius rap hangers. Make a single rope rap down the ramp/nose to a set of rap anchors (chains). A double rope rap from here will just get you down to the start of the climb. (-Randy Baum)
Addendum: I just wanted to add that this past weekend, I did the Pair-a-Grins variation to this route and it is without a doubt a better way to the top than the standard 2nd pitch. It's a little run-out between bolts (thought-provoking but not unsafe) and the exposure isn't for the faint of heart. All I took for this pitch was quickdraws.
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