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most dangerous aspect of climbing

Original Post
steve santora · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2006 · Points: 5

With the recent death of Chad Kellogg, and two deaths attributed to rock fall on El Cap, I am wondering what the most dangerous aspect of climbing is? I have had several close calls with rock fall, one resulted in cutting my rope while leading. I would have to put this very high on the list, but it seems I never or rarely read anyway climbing technique discussing the problem or the preventing of such? thoughts?

GhaMby Eagan · · Heaven · Joined Oct 2006 · Points: 385

Driving to the crag.

Aaron Lefland · · Hamden, CT · Joined Feb 2010 · Points: 25

I really think that the dangers of climbing vary depending on a lot of circumstances:

1) Level of competence: If you and your partner both know what you are doing, then you will hopefully avoid making mistakes like back clipping, placing bad pro, etc. And in that case, you will have a bigger chance of getting hurt by the things that you can't control (i.e. rock fall, sudden weather changes, etc.). However, if you are not a competent climber, something simple like bad belaying might be the thing that ends your day.

2) Style of climbing: In most cases, sport climbing is usually going to be a bit safer than trad. And trad is going to be a bit safer than alpine.

3) Where you decide to climb: Certain places are more prone to dangers like rockfall, while others are notorious for run-outs and potential for long falls.

4) Ease of retreat: If the weather turns bad and you are 800' up a face and 5 miles from the car, you might be in more danger than if you are two bolts up a climb at your roadside crag.

5) There are probably many more...i just haven't had a cup of coffee yet.

So, if you are looking for a one-size-fits-all answer, then you would probably just have to look at statistics. Pick up a copy of "Accidents in North American Mountaineering" and see what the most common accident is. However, if you are looking to find the most dangerous aspect of climbing as it pertains to you/the area you climb/the style of climbing you do, then it will vary greatly

plantmandan · · Brighton, CO · Joined Sep 2010 · Points: 85

Human error.

Chris I · · Fort Collins, CO · Joined Nov 2007 · Points: 80

If you ever get a chance to flip through an issue of Accident in North American Mountaineering, it seems like rappelling is the source of the most accidents. People are often rushed, maybe tired, and don't take many precautions to add redundancy to the rappel system, resulting in a lot of preventable accidents.

Ian Cavanaugh · · Ketchum, ID · Joined Sep 2010 · Points: 620

reading forums on MP, RC and ST

Marc H · · Longmont, CO · Joined May 2007 · Points: 265

Gravity. And the sudden stop at the end of a fall.

Woodchuck ATC · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2007 · Points: 3,280
DoesNotCare wrote:Driving to the crag.
+1.statistically probably correct. But from the 'accident' pages each month in Rock and Ice, I'd still guess it's rappelling accidents, with those running off the ends of their rope blindly, or anchor failure. Raps, like the descent off Everest, any downclimbing, end up being the worst part of the day, when you are tired, careless and in a hurry with your mind on other things.
Abram Herman · · Grand Junction, CO · Joined May 2009 · Points: 20
plantmandan wrote:Human error.
+1
george wilkey · · travelers rest sc · Joined Jan 2013 · Points: 235

I agree with doesnotcare that driving to the crag is prob number 1, and I would put other climbers above you at number 2.

Brian in SLC · · Sandy, Utah · Joined Oct 2003 · Points: 21,711
Chris I wrote:If you ever get a chance to flip through an issue of Accident in North American Mountaineering, it seems like rappelling is the source of the most accidents. People are often rushed, maybe tired, and don't take many precautions to add redundancy to the rappel system, resulting in a lot of preventable accidents.
Actually...if you read ANAM you'd know that's not true.

Falling is numero uno. Don't fall, kids.
M Mobley · · Bar Harbor, ME · Joined Mar 2006 · Points: 911
Brian in SLC wrote: Actually...if you read ANAM you'd know that's not true. Falling is numero uno. Don't fall, kids.
falling is usually fine, the ground is the most dangerous aspect of climbing
Optimistic · · New Paltz · Joined Aug 2007 · Points: 450

John Dill provides a superb beginning of an answer to this question here supertopo.com/topos/yosemit…

James Crump · · Canyon Lake, TX · Joined Dec 2008 · Points: 200

The descent and driving home.

RIP Tom and Kirky.

James Crump · · Canyon Lake, TX · Joined Dec 2008 · Points: 200

Oh and climbing with gumbies.

Marta Reece · · Las Cruces, NM · Joined Dec 2011 · Points: 2,425

You may drive to your climb, and do a long approach after that, and then find that loose rocks are the biggest problem - loose rocks on the fourth class approach, holds which become loose, rocks which detach and drop toward your belayer as you test your pro, rocks that come at you as you pull your ropes, rocks that roll onto you on descent. Some areas just have loose rocks, and experience can mitigate a lot of that but not all.

Injured Climber · · Bloomington, MN · Joined Jun 2009 · Points: 0

There are ways to mitigate rockfall danger. I think most of this is common sense but there are a few things that some people might not be aware of:

Choose the right route at the right time of year and the right time of day

It is best to do alpine climbs with loose rock when the temperature is lower and most of the loose stuff is frozen together. For example, the Canadian Rockies are composed of sedimentary rock- shale and the rockfall potential is high there. Notorious rockfall routes such as Asteroid Alley on Mt Andromeda probably should not be attempted in the warmer months. If you do decide to attempt a rockfall prone route in warmer conditions its important to wake up early and climb at night and early morning. The same goes for most of the alpine where any 'objective' dangers are involved- cold is your friend.

Choose the right descent

It is tempting to choose a descent which is technically easier despite its rock fall danger. Easier climbs and descents often follow weaknesses which are subject to rock fall. Standard and easier routes are often more dangerous than difficult ones. Climb harder and you'll generally be safer from falling rocks, cornices, and seracs.

Move quickly on rockfall prone terrain

Anywhere there is any potential for falling shit, you got to move quick. Rest in safer zones. This means having good enough fitness for your route so that you can sprint the dangerous sections and also have the wherewithal to be able to analyze your position continuously while climbing. It is best to climb dangerous routes quick. No shit!

And lastly, climb and rappel carefully to not drop rocks on your partner

There is much less you can do about rock fall on steep rock routes except to pick more traveled routes and place your belays in safer spots. Even Yosemite granite falls often. Loose rock should be expected on new climbs.

Other than that, there's not much else to say...climbing is dangerous and rock fall is going to happen

James Crump · · Canyon Lake, TX · Joined Dec 2008 · Points: 200

Avalanches.

RIP Gil Harder, Nick Vanderbilt, and Alex Lowe.

Night Soloing.

RIP Harold Holtzendorf.

Rock Fall.

RIP Tito.

Crazy Girlfriends...
Lost loves...
Mountain Gods Playing, "Bowling for Bodies..."

It is all dangerous. Learn from hard won lessons.

Ryan Watts · · Bishop, CA · Joined Apr 2013 · Points: 25

Statistically speaking, according to ANAM:

1) Most accidents occur on the ascent, rather than the descent (not by a large margin, but some).

2) Most common immediate cause is falling, by a large margin. From 1951-2005, ANAM has 4378 accidents attributed to falling or slipping. 671 from falling rock or ice. 271 from rappelling.

3) Most common "contributory cause" is climbing unroped, roughly tied with "exceeding abilities".

Of course these are just numbers and "danger" is somewhat subjective. I'd imagine most of the falling injuries were non-fatal whereas rappel failure is probably almost always fatal.

Em Cos · · Boulder, CO · Joined Apr 2010 · Points: 5

ANAM is useful anecdotally, but keep in mind it relies on self-reporting and does not include all accidents so doesn't necessarily provide valid statistics. For example, if 80% of all accidents reported to ANAM involved rappel failure that wouldn't necessarily mean that 80% of all accidents involve rappel failure.
Just something to keep in mind.

iceman777 · · Colorado Springs · Joined Oct 2007 · Points: 60

I'm going with driving to and from the climb.

I'll add leaving the ground as my second choice

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Northern Utah & Idaho
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