One fall

Just bought another new rope and on browing the brochure I noticed that it said the rope should be replaced after a single fall >FF1.
I was wondering how many people do this?

is your rope made of braided hemp?

NOBODY performs a FF1.

www.ropebook.com/information/fall-factors

DoesNotCare wrote:NOBODY performs a FF1. ropebook.com/information/fa…

FF1+ is a possibility when multipitch climbing.

I did. In fact, had it not been for a bolt clipped immediately at the anchor, it would have been a factor 2.

I climbed on that rope very regularly for about another year or so. It didn't hurt it at all.

DoesNotCare wrote:NOBODY performs a FF1.

This is absolutely false. I've taken a FF1 fall myself. So has the poster above me.

You climb on static ropes and the belayer is also not allowing ANY extra slack out??? hmm.

DoesNotCare wrote:You climb on static ropes and the belayer is also not allowing ANY extra slack out??? hmm.

I think you need to look up what the definition of a factor 2 fall is.

ropebook.com/information/fa… http://www.ropebook.com/information/fall-factors

DoesNotCare wrote: ropebook.com/information/fa… http://www.ropebook.com/information/fall-factors

Excellent work. Next step, read for comprehension.

Another point: the '>' symbol means greater than. . .

rope should be replaced after a single fall >FF1.

Fall Factor One - FF1

Diagram showing the calculation of a Fall Factor 1 FF1 with a two metre lanyard and two metre fall
In this diagram the climber has a two metre dynamic rope lanyard that is connected to an anchor point. The anchor point is at the same height in relation to the harness attachment point, meaning that the climber could fall a distance of two metres. So;

Equation for calculating fall factors resulting in a fall factor of one FF1

This would result in a fall factor one (FF1). Low-stretch or semi-static ropes conforming to the European EN 1891 standard are tested to hold a specific number of fall factor one (FF1) falls before failure occurs. Although using semi-static rope to arrest falls should always be avoided as significant and possibly fatal forces can be exerted on the climber, the anchor point and the equipment.

- See more at: ropebook.com/information/fa…

How are you going to fall the same distance as the rope you have out if you are climbing on a dynamic rope with a slightly dynamic belay???

A fall factor is not a measurement of fall force nor is it a measure of absolute distance.

If I have gear at 10 feet and climb up another 10, I have 20' out. If I fall, I'll fall 20' if the gear holds. In fact, it'll be a bit further due to stretch. Voila, a fall factor greater than 1. It's not a force measurement. This can be pretty cush sometimes.

If a little stretch and rope slippage are what is hanging you up, do your math to compensate. It's still quite possible. Real world falls are in fact much softer than in testing because of rope slippage and soft bodies. That doesn't change the simple math of how to calculate how far a fall was relative to the rope out.

In less precise terms, if you end your fall and are even with your belayer, 1. If you fall before gear, 2. If you have gear in between you and your belayer and you fall below him, something above one and below two.

Don't forget to exaggerate later.

I think some people need to brush up on their division.

DoesNotCare wrote:I think some people need to brush up on their division.

For posterity.

Remember, ropes don't break, they cut ;)

michael s... wrote:is your rope made of braided hemp?

Good question but no - Edelrid. I was quite surprised.

All those bridge jumps on climbing rope are FF1.

DoesNotCare wrote: How are you going to fall the same distance as the rope you have out if you are climbing on a dynamic rope with a slightly dynamic belay???

Your understanding of ff's seems poor. And those diagrams, although mathematically correct are poor depictions of fall factors.

Syd wrote: Good question but no - Edelrid. I was quite surprised. All those bridge jumps on climbing rope are FF1.

The issue is not that the rope will break if you fall on it again, but that the rope will/may be far less dynamic on future falls, which will increase force on both climber and top piece of gear, making it more likely to pop/break gear and more likely to damage the climber.

Inspect the rope closely ... Consider the age and wear of the rope then make a decision

The tendon ambition 10.2 mm is rated to 11 uiaa falls and has an impact force of 7.2 kn ... Would i use a newish one again after a good >factor 1 fall if it checked out .... Absolutely

Would i reuse a 5 uiaa fall rope that already has years of use and had a 9.5 kn impact force when new ... Nope, not for lead

Of course for TR if a rope checks out visually and tactilely, and hasnt been exposed to chemicals .... You can still use it for TR

Remeber that pure factor 2 falls are VERY rare ... With rock friction, slippage, etc ... Is not somethings thats often seen ...

And remeber that manufacturers are exceptionally consevative ... Thers some that say retire a rope after sitting in the closet for a few years .... When we know that UIAA testing shows that even in a lab, ropes that pass inspection and arent chemically exposed dont break

You need to make your own decision

;)