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Equalette Top - Belay Masterpoint Question... help?

Kiri Namtvedt · · Minneapolis, MN · Joined Nov 2007 · Points: 30

I actually just read the lastest edition of John Long's Anchors book, and I can inform you that it is possible to clip into the equalette with a single locker--twist one strand of the master point to create a sliding X. He describes this in the book as an alternative to the "one locker per strand" method.

I have been climbing for years using the good 'ol cordelette method, but I'm considering adding the equalette to my quiver of tools.

Greg D · · Here · Joined Apr 2006 · Points: 883

Cassondra and too tall nailed it. And yes his photo is an equalette. You just can't see the two to four attachment points above.

To clarify, a biner is not a master point. A biner gets clipped to a master point.

Tip. When tying your equalette make one strand between the limiter knots slightly longer. When you put the half twist in that strand both hold the load nicely.

One locker to clove your rope for your anchor. One locker in same point to hang your auto block. It works great. But many people don't understand if.

Ps. Don't be so uptight.

Just realized how old this thread is. Why did you resurrect it?

Chase Leoncini · · San Diego, CA · Joined Aug 2012 · Points: 297

So that all who try to respond in future to this post...
A masterpoint is not the carabiner in corded anchor. The loop you clip into is.
Secondly, (and i havent read this thread again) an equallette can be clipped into with one locker by simply twisting one of those bottom strands. Ive since used this version. And yes, it does briefly discuss this in John Long's Anchor Book. I overlooked it at the time of this post. (If that's even what i asked about... I dont come here much anymore.... shoulder surgery, :''''((( RIP arm/climbing. FML)

Ryan Watts · · Bishop, CA · Joined Apr 2013 · Points: 25

Hmmm I am familiar with the cordelette and even used one of those alpine equalizer things once but this is a new one. Two lockers? Sounds like a cluster.

Not trying to be a dick, but why complicate things! Are you belaying off some sketch nest of RPs or something? If the gear in the belay is bomber then...fig 8, clove, clove, off belay right?

Greg D · · Here · Joined Apr 2006 · Points: 883
Ryan Watts wrote:Hmmm I am familiar with the cordelette and even used one of those alpine equalizer things once but this is a new one. Two lockers? Sounds like a cluster. Not trying to be a dick, but why complicate things! Are you belaying off some sketch nest of RPs or something? If the gear in the belay is bomber then...fig 8, clove, clove, off belay right?
You're not being a dick. You just don't understand. One locker to anchor yourself. One locker to belay. Not complicated. Not a cluster.
Ryan Watts · · Bishop, CA · Joined Apr 2013 · Points: 25
Greg D wrote: You're not being a dick. You just don't understand. One locker to anchor yourself. One locker to belay. Not complicated. Not a cluster.
Wait...then I must be completely missing the question. That sounds exactly like every other setup with a masterpoint (assuming you're belaying off the anchor vs. off the harness or a redirect).

In that case, to answer the question, when using a cordelette I just clove hitch into a locker through the master point, then clip the other locker through the "shelf" above the master point knot if I'm belaying off the anchor. Seems to work pretty smooth.

And yes I realize I will probably die due to the incomplete equalization of said set up.
Greg D · · Here · Joined Apr 2006 · Points: 883

Yep. You got it. Although no need to use tthe shelf on equalette. Plenty of room at master point. So many reasons why equalette is better. But it didn't catch on. Few people use it. Probably because the cordalette seems simpler and few have failed. But few have truly been tested. The one cordalette failure that I know of gave off three separate and distinct pops. Hard to say if an equalette would have performed better. But good load distribution is a valuable strategy to incorporate into anchors.

rging · · Salt Lake City, Ut · Joined Jul 2011 · Points: 210

At 3:34 of this video it demonstrates the master point.
master point

dave wave · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2011 · Points: 25

What is this Equalette shit? It sounds new!?!? So it's prob stupid, and isn't tried and true...Damn, that shit even rhymed.

If your building an anchor to belay your second, use a clove hitch in your rope and a locker in each bolt.

Or throw a draw in ea bolt with your rope in a dbl figure eight.

If thats not redundant enough...tie your rope off in a dbl bowline on a bight, and throw two lockers in.

Greg D · · Here · Joined Apr 2006 · Points: 883
dave wave wrote:What is this Equalette shit? It sounds new!?!? So it's prob stupid, and isn't tried and true...Damn, that shit even rhymed. If your building an anchor to belay your second, use a clove hitch in your rope and a locker in each bolt. Or throw a draw in ea bolt with your rope in a dbl figure eight. If thats not redundant enough...tie your rope off in a dbl bowline on a bight, and throw two lockers in.
Its been around for many years. It sounds like you haven't since you refer to bolts at the anchor. And since you haven't heard of it, it must be stupid. Hmmm.
David Coley · · UK · Joined Oct 2013 · Points: 70
ChaseLeoncini wrote:Ive used the equalette many times as a TR but have never thought of using it for multi-pitch. I have came across an issue. This may be a silly question and im just not thinking clearly but if the master point is 2 carabiners through both seperate strands, for top - belay do i tie in to that master point with a fig 8 and re-direct my rope through another two carabiners? Do i redirect Through the same two? (i dnt like runnin it like that w the friction) Its obvious i couldnt use my direct belay because an atc guide doesnt have enough room for two carabiners to fit through that little hole. Do i tie in somewhere else? At one of the legs and back it up? Tree? May be silly but id still like to know what others are doing. (PS im fully aware there are other anchors to use and could use another but id like to know about this one. I suppose i could always go in-direct as well but...) Thanks in advance! :)
I think these might be the pictures you are looking for:

If only one locker use a sliding-X

If using two lockers place one on each strand

Or hang the Reverso from the first large locker (all photos from "High: advanced multi pitch climbing)
Chase Leoncini · · San Diego, CA · Joined Aug 2012 · Points: 297

Dear God, this thread is ancient people. I dont need any information on the equalette or anchoring in general. Stop replying to me. If you need information on the equalette yourself all the information is here if you weed through the comments. No need to beat a dead horse, as they say.

dave wave · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2011 · Points: 25
Greg D wrote: Its been around for many years. It sounds like you haven't since you refer to bolts at the anchor. And since you haven't heard of it, it must be stupid. Hmmm.
oh you got me there...
csproul · · Pittsboro...sort of, NC · Joined Dec 2009 · Points: 330
ChaseLeoncini wrote:Dear God, this thread is ancient people. I dont need any information on the equalette or anchoring in general. Stop replying to me. If you need information on the equalette yourself all the information is here if you weed through the comments. No need to beat a dead horse, as they say.
That's right people! Chase has it figured out after a year and a half, and has written the definitive guide to all things climbing!
Chase Leoncini · · San Diego, CA · Joined Aug 2012 · Points: 297

csproul still trolls the mountains of the project i see.
It was a reference guide i typed up a year or two ago that i had archived and was going to delete today. I figured id post it somewhere where someone might use it rather than just discard it.
Your useless sarcasm is, as usual, a waste of thread. So let that deathgrip around your tiny cock go so it can return to its regular pigment and go enjoy that family that hates you so much. Ancient troll.

csproul · · Pittsboro...sort of, NC · Joined Dec 2009 · Points: 330
ChaseLeoncini wrote:csproul still trolls the mountains of the project i see. It was a reference guide i typed up a year or two ago that i had archived and was going to delete today. I figured id post it somewhere where someone might use it rather than just discard it. Your useless sarcasm is, as usual, a waste of thread. So let that deathgrip around your tiny cock go so it can return to its regular pigment and go enjoy that family that hates you so much. Ancient troll.
There's our classic belligerent Chase! Welcome back.
Greg D · · Here · Joined Apr 2006 · Points: 883

Chase, we are not responding to you anymore. We are responding to each other. Its a community forum, not Chase's personal blog spot. You're being kind of an ass. You can choose to not receive notification of this thread you know?

The rest of us choose to still discuss.

don'tchuffonme · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2014 · Points: 26
ChaseLeoncini wrote:I dont come here much anymore.... shoulder surgery, :''''((( RIP arm/climbing. FML)
So... don't? But if you don't, you should probably realize that you can't post a novel of essentially basic and worthless drivel. Information Highway indeed. More like information landfill.

Two questions: When can we expect all your gear in the FOR SALE forum and are you still dating that hot chick that apparently has terrible taste in men? If not, I may have a shot.

Csproul's cock isn't tiny. Don't ask me how I know, just ssshhhhh...

His sack is sizeable too. Just so you know.

Stop being a nooblet fuckwit toolbag.
NC Rock Climber · · The Oven, AKA Phoenix · Joined Dec 2009 · Points: 60
don'tchuffonme wrote: So... don't? But if you don't, you should probably realize that you can't post a novel of essentially basic and worthless drivel. Information Highway indeed. More like information landfill. Two questions: When can we expect all your gear in the FOR SALE forum and are you still dating that hot chick that apparently has terrible taste in men? If not, I may have a shot. Csproul's cock isn't tiny. Don't ask me how I know, just ssshhhhh... His sack is sizeable too. Just so you know. Stop being a nooblet fuckwit toolbag.
LOL! Fucking hilarious!
Greg D · · Here · Joined Apr 2006 · Points: 883

For the sake of redundancy, I prefer:

Redundant master

over this:

Non redundant master

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

General Climbing
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