Cabezon Peak
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Has anyone climbed Cabezon Peak by a route OTHER than the standard class 3/4 hike? It looks like there might be several lines that are doable, but I was wondering if anyone had tried. |
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John Kear might know something, you could try PMing him. I think we talked once about some 5th class lines (5.10 or so) out there, but I could be remembering some other formation.
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It's funny. I've been researching this for a while now, and I can't find any beta on technical climbs at Cabezon. There are tons of accounts of "climbs" up the 3rd/4th class route, but nothing on anything else. |
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JeremyA wrote:Jason, Go explore and have fun. REMEMBER...you are not the first one to look for/do routes out there. Bolting any "new" lines you might find would be a bad idea as they were no doubt done without any bolts before you "discovered" them. Think about it. Jeremy Aslaksen ABQMy bolting mantra is this: if natural pro is there, I don't bolt. However, if a great line is there, and would be made safer with a bolt or three where there isn't natural pro, put a bolt in. And I don't own a power drill, so all drilling is done by hand. |
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I climbed a class 5 route on the south face of Cabezon back in the early 1990s. Maybe 4 pitches??? It's been a long time, don't remember. |
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Great story, Harry. I appreciate that kind of adventurous spirit and going for it. And a scree bollard anchor? That's awesome. |
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My brother's lead on that final headwall was one of the most mind-blowing leads I've ever seen anyone do. |
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I am going to be out in the Cabezon area next month.. Toula says something about a 3rd class route on the west face that "steepens up at thetop" ? |
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Yeah, that's the normal hiking trail to the top. There is on "Class 4" move at the top, but it's not really that bad. Mostly Class 2 once you start up the peak. Look for the cairns and a giant arrow that someone made out of rock. Once you start up, the main wall should be on your left, and the flake should be on your right. |
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Thanks..I'm guessing the descent will take longer than the climb |
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Standard route is up the East face, not west. |
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The link below has descriptions and pictures that may be useful if you are interested in the standard scramble up. |
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I took the liberty last summer of adding a Cabezon page to MP under area of Upper Rio Puerco Valley (assuming there's a Lower ... ?): |
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docsavage,
My brother found some old photos of our ascent of Cabezon (see my post above). He reminded me that we found an old piton on the route. After looking at some detailed photos of the south face, it appears that in the 1990s we repeated the route of the 1974 UNM Mountaineering Club! Great minds think alike, apparently, because we picked the same line that you guys did in 1974! (: Here are some photos from our ascent of the route in the 1990s: The lower pitches Getting to easier 4th class terrain The final summit death pitch on the south face of Cabezon, New Mexico |
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+++^^^ ... still gives me shivers just looking at it ... |