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Everything in Between Variation
5.11 YDS 6c+ French 23 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 23 ZA E4 5c British
Avg: 3.3 from 3
votes
Routes in Interiors Wall Area
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A Piece of Work T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Bigger Than She Looks T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Briar's Birth T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Everything in Between Variation T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Eye for an Eye T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Fondon't T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Interiors T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Key Hole T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
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Lieback T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Make The Grade T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Not Like Any Other Desert Splitter (Left Dihedral?) T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Pinball Chimney T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R |
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Pony Express aka Bunny Ramp T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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PR Training V0+ 4+ |
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Right of Lieback T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Shaft, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Supermank of the Desert T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Texas Finger Crack T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Trudolph Tower T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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Unknown I T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Unknown II T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Unknown III T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
Order Wrong?
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| Type: | Trad, 100 ft (30 m) |
| FA: | Chuck Grossman & Peter Delanoy (1982) (?) |
| Page Views: | 1,918 total · 15/month |
| Shared By: | Jeff McLeod on Feb 17, 2014 |
| Admins: | Jesse Zacher, Bradley Mark Edwards, Nick Reecy, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Access Issue: The Cabin Wall and the Island are both closed to climbing
Details
The Cabin Wall and the Island are closed. In regard to the rest of the areas in Escalante "Continued use of this area relies on good stewardship and a relationship of trust with the landowner."
Respect local residents, cattle and wildlife by following the posted speed limit of 20 mph.
Minimize user impact by staying on established trails and roads.
Park off the road in established pull-offs or parking areas.
Pack out human waste and garbage.
Keep noise to a minimum.
Portions of Escalante Canyon are active ranching areas. Keep pets under leash control at all times.
No fires and no discharge of firearms.
Camp in established areas only. No camping on private property.
Respect local residents, cattle and wildlife by following the posted speed limit of 20 mph.
Minimize user impact by staying on established trails and roads.
Park off the road in established pull-offs or parking areas.
Pack out human waste and garbage.
Keep noise to a minimum.
Portions of Escalante Canyon are active ranching areas. Keep pets under leash control at all times.
No fires and no discharge of firearms.
Camp in established areas only. No camping on private property.
Description
This is a great line a couple corners to climber's right (East) of Lieback. All I know about it other than what I know from climbing it has been gleaned from the thread for the photo that depicts the route in the Interiors Wall area section, which I will submit as a photo for this route.
You have to stand on a pile of weird, muddy stuff to start it. Begin with a thin hands/fingers section that is probably best laybacked, which felt 5.10+.
Continue into hands then fists, and turn an overhang/bulge with fists. Continue as the crack widens into #4/#5 size, and turn another overhang in an awkward offwidth section that felt harder, probably the crux of the route at 5.11 something or at least 5.10+.
Finish up the widening offwidth for 10 or 15 feet, and end by traversing left on junk/sandy edges to the bolted anchors. This section was scary and sketchy, a very cool finish to a very cool route. Watch out for loose rock on the sandy ledge above the anchor, and prepare for an extremely uncomfortable belay.
A last comment: I think one could probably take the squeeze chimney above this route to the top of the cliff, but you would need bigger gear.
Descent: this can be rapped with a single 60m rope from the anchors, make sure to tie knots! You will almost reach the ends and will have to swing a bit to climber's left to stand.
You have to stand on a pile of weird, muddy stuff to start it. Begin with a thin hands/fingers section that is probably best laybacked, which felt 5.10+.
Continue into hands then fists, and turn an overhang/bulge with fists. Continue as the crack widens into #4/#5 size, and turn another overhang in an awkward offwidth section that felt harder, probably the crux of the route at 5.11 something or at least 5.10+.
Finish up the widening offwidth for 10 or 15 feet, and end by traversing left on junk/sandy edges to the bolted anchors. This section was scary and sketchy, a very cool finish to a very cool route. Watch out for loose rock on the sandy ledge above the anchor, and prepare for an extremely uncomfortable belay.
A last comment: I think one could probably take the squeeze chimney above this route to the top of the cliff, but you would need bigger gear.
Descent: this can be rapped with a single 60m rope from the anchors, make sure to tie knots! You will almost reach the ends and will have to swing a bit to climber's left to stand.
Location
Look at the photo to find this route, it is labeled NEW. This is two corners to climber's right (EAST) of the route Lieback. Look up about 100 feet, and you will see two sets of bolted anchors. The ones on the left I presume could be used for the hard-looking corner on the left, and the ones on the right are for this route. Stand on a pile of dried, muddy looking stuff to start the route.
Protection
Protection: bring everything from purple/green Camalots for the bottom up through #5 for the top, I think it would be nice to have up there although I didn't place one. Bring doubles/triples of hand/fist size for the middle.
Anchors: there are two nice looking bolts with chains in a terrible place to belay.
Anchors: there are two nice looking bolts with chains in a terrible place to belay.
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