Poll: What shoe are you wearing on multipitch routes?

Sometimes TC Pros, sometimes Anasazis. Depends on the amount of cracks I have to shove my feet in.

Scarpa instinct vs or Scarpa vapor v

depends on the route and the type of climbing

when in doubt i always default back to the katana velcros though

;)

Vapor lace 1/2 a size up from my vapor sport shoes. I like a stiff shoe, and climbed scared in mocs unless the climb was straight jam crack or super easy.

TC's

Currently own several different pair. But for multi-pitch trad I generally use Mythos.

I also have an old pair of La Sportiva Mariachers (high tops) that I like a lot for all day multi-pitch trad. They're a little big so I wear a light pair of sox. As the day goes on and my feet swell in the hot weather I take the sox off and stick them in my back pocket.

TC Pros might be the next pair I look at.

TC Pros

VaGenius wrote:Sport chalet has Evolv defy for sixty bones on sale right now. I'd buy those, Keith. Comfy and replaceable. I use whatever has not been ruined yet, or what just of r resoles.

I like that option, thanks!

DoesNotCare wrote:Fyi: the tv pro and katana lace both use the same last.

Is this equivalent to saying the sole of the Katana Lace is as stiff as the TC Pro? I'm skeptical but haven't seen 'em side by side.

jaredj wrote: Is this equivalent to saying the sole of the Katana Lace is as stiff as the TC Pro? I'm skeptical but haven't seen 'em side by side.

Jared,

I'm not a shoe expert, but both shoes have the "P3" midsole, which implies similar stiffness. That's not something you could tell just by looking.

FrankPS wrote: Jared, I'm not a shoe expert, but both shoes have the "P3" midsole, which implies similar stiffness. That's not something you could tell just by looking.

Frank, it doesn't mean anything - Miura VS have P3 platform as well, it just means that they retain the shape longer. I always thought Katana Velcro and TC Pros were built on the same last. Katana laces are way more aggressive. I own both Katana Velcro and TC Pros and they climb pretty much the same IMO (TCs just have more padding).

TC Pros, an old, re-soled pair. I like them for anything 5.10 an under and over three pitches. Mythos are okay, but I don't like their lack of ankle support for a long day.

doligo wrote: Frank, it doesn't mean anything - Miura VS have P3 platform as well, it just means that they retain the shape longer. I always thought Katana Velcro and TC Pros were built on the same last. Katana laces are way more aggressive. I own both Katana Velcro and TC Pros and they climb pretty much the same IMO (TCs just have more padding).

Doligo,

Doesn't the midsole affect or determine the stiffness? (showing my lack of shoe knowledge) If it's not the midsole, what element of shoe construction determines the stiffness?

Edit: The Katana Velcro doesn't have the same midsole as the TC Pro and the Katana Lace, according to La Sportiva's website. The Katana Lace and the TC Pro have the P3, where the Katana Velcro does not.

I guess I rushed into making a comment, yeah stiffness may be the same, but TC Pros and Katana Laces are not built on the same last. Katana Laces are way downturned.

doligo wrote:I guess I rushed into making a comment, yeah stiffness may be the same, but TC Pros and Katana Laces are not built on the same last. Katana Laces are way downturned.

TC PRO-LAST: PD 55
Katana Lace-LAST: PD 55
Katana (velcro)-LAST: PD 55
Miura-LAST: PD 75
Miura VS-LAST: PD 75
Python-LAST: PD75
Futura-LAST: PD 75
Cobra-LAST: PD 75
Mythos-LAST: RN 25
Solution-LAST: PD 80
Testarossa-LAST: PD 85
Jeckyl VS-LAST: PN 45
Nago-LAST: PN 45
Tarantula-LAST: RL45
Tarantulace-LAST: RN 45
Oxygym-LAST: RL45

The lasts surprised me, I always felt like the Miura and Miura VS had a VERY different fit for me. . .

i have a pair of masais and i would not describe them as comfortable trad shoes. i would describe them as high performance trad shoes. i have a d width foot, size 12. i sized them down 1/2 size and probably shouldn't have, but i still climb runout slabs and precise foot work is very important to me. i'm not good enough anymore to climb all these shoes will do, which in its own way provides me with a margin of error. try them on before you buy and make sure they are wide enough and be careful sizing them down.

jeep gaskin wrote:i have a pair of masais and i would not describe them as comfortable trad shoes. i would describe them as high performance trad shoes. i have a d width foot, size 12. i sized them down 1/2 size and probably shouldn't have, but i still climb runout slabs and precise foot work is very important to me. i'm not good enough anymore to climb all these shoes will do, which in its own way provides me with a margin of error. try them on before you buy and make sure they are wide enough and be careful sizing them down.

My Masais are half a size too big, so they are plenty comfortable for 3 pitches, yet they still edge well enough for 5.12 sport in the Owen's River gorge, which is dead vertical.

I'm wanting a pair of Ra's for sport right at street shoe size, mostly because I want to be able to put on and take my shoes off faster cause I'm lazy!

I wear lace up nago's, same size as my street shoes. they're comfortable enough to wear all day. in fact, I could hike into most places wearing them if I wanted to.

I'd give a thumbs up for tcs but there quality control is lacking , had a pair and two days out they started delaminating, after returning them to the store and having the sportiva rep tell us to just glue it back .sportiva can keep there shitty TC pros . I'm not paying good money for something that falls apart on day two . I don't give a rats ass who climbs what in them , those climbers never pay a dime for that junk anyway so there opinion to me means two things jack and shit.... and jack just left town .

What's really funny to me is of all the really good old school climbers I know not one of them climbs in TC pros , they slip on whatever they have and crush what they want .
Ive witnessed several free solos on 12+ routes by several who climbed in whatever they were given as a free set of shoes .

I've been really happy with my Murias for everything from granite to sandstone to limestone . There a little more aggressive on some things then I need but I've managed to work that out . I size up for comfort and down for performance . I also used the mythos for a time there sticky as hell on granite and comfy as a bedroom slipper but there too soft for my liking .

DoesNotCare wrote: The lasts surprised me, I always felt like the Miura and Miura VS had a VERY different fit for me. . .

I believe the last code indicated the asymmetry & to a slightly lesser degree, the amount of downturn of the sole. It says nothing of the stiffness of the sole or the volume of the toe box.

For me it's usually Katana Lace, TC Pro, or Viper, depending on what I'm climbing.

The holy grail of performance multi-pitch trad (at least out west) shoes, IMO, is something that micro edges & climbs thin cracks well. Otherwise, you can usually compromise one way or another. But those 2 requirements generally lead to conflicting attributes in a climbing shoe.

For me, it's Katana Lace if thin crack jamming is the crux & TC if edging is the crux. I've not tried the Masai; it looks like it could fit the bill, as could the new Scarpa Techno.