All Locations > Utah > Wasatch Range > Central Wasatch > Little Cottonwo… > Early Bird

Boing-oing-oing

Name: Boing-oing-oing
Rating: 2.3

5.10d YDS 6b+ French 21 Ewbanks VII+ UIAA 21 ZA E3 5b British

Routes in Early Bird

L › R R › L A › Z

	Bed Head T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
	Boing-oing-oing T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
	Early Bird T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
	Hair of the Dog T 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
	Worm, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

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Type:	Trad, 150 ft (45 m)
FA:	Clay Watson, Mike Perkins and Gregg Kirchhoff, 2010
Page Views:	1,088 total · 7/month
Shared By:	tenesmus on May 14, 2011
Admins:	Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, D C Page Updates (admin only)

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Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details

Climbers Partner with LDS Church on Stewardship of Little Cottonwood Canyon Climbing

June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.

The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.

Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault as well as the Glen boulders that have been traditionally closed will remain closed.
Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.

Read More:

saltlakeclimbers.org/climbe…

SLCA and AF recreational leased area on LDS Church land

Description

This might is one of the rare .10d to 11a crack routes in LCC and is one of the most fun routes of the crag.

Begin as for Early Bird on twin cracks, taking good but precise gear including an in-obvious #4 camalot-sized piece. Look for a left-slanting crack that turns the corner around the arete and get ready to get after it as you move around and into the shallow dihedral on the southern face. Follow this crack system up to the ledge and anchor where The Worm ends. The crux seems to be based on the sequence you find getting established and protected in that corner.

If you find the right holds, pulling into and through that dihedral could be as easy as .10c. But if you don't find the right holds, it can feel like .11a. I got all kinds of worked up on the first ascent, climbing into/out of that dihedral a bunch of times as I searched for gear and a way through.