Organ Mountains - Re-bolting

The Organ Mountains contain many old 1/4 inch bolts which should be replaced (30 to 50 years old). New gear would reduce the number to be replaced but most are necessary (no cracks). I would start with the popular routes (perhaps just these routes), use stainless gear and paint the bolts. There should be no power drilling (wilderness study area equals wilderness) and the good samaritans should employ good judgment.

I want to add my vote for the Left Eyebrow. I enjoyed leading the 6th pitch, but I would be completely surprised if that ancient bolt would hold any sort of fall, purely a mental pillow. I treated that section past the roof as a free solo, knowing that a fall most likely break something on me. Leaving me in a position that would difficult to perform a rescue. If I get knocked out, hope my partner has knows his escape belay and high angle rescue techniques.

Craig Childre wrote:... a fall most likely break something on me. Leaving me in a position that would difficult to perform a rescue. If I get knocked out, hope my partner has knows his escape belay and high angle rescue techniques.

Tend to agree with vag about collective wisdom. I suspect it is more about collecting input so as to learn something from vocal folks in the community and so maximize the chance that your new bolts are not chopped.

Hi Dan,
Great idea, thanks for taking this up. I agree with what most people have been saying — the old 1/4" bolts should be replaced. The climbing will still be runout and thrilling, but new gear might make it less dangerous. Left Eyebrow (Sugarloaf) is a great climb that would be improved with a bolt replacement on Pitch 6. Thanks again!

Karl Kiser wrote:There should be no power drilling (wilderness study area equals wilderness)

A few years ago, some us us have had a valuable conversation on the subject of preserving the Organs (see first link below). I think we all agree that they should be preserved, but not all designations are equal (IMO I believe that Wilderness is too restrictive to some user groups, like climbers and mtn bikers, and perversely relaxed for cattle ranching and horseback access with have much higher impact).

The Access Fund has been fighting hard to allow bolts to remain in Wilderness Areas, and I don't know how that battle has shaken out over the years. I do remember about 10 or 15 years ago, there was an interpretation on the Wilderness Act that would have made all bolts and rap anchors illegal because they could be deemed "Permanent Installations". If that interpretation were to become the norm, it would have serious negative implications for climbing throughout the US. Just something to consider.

mountainproject.com/v/organ…

and here's a link to a recent example of how bolting can become a sticky morass of interpretation:

rockandice.com/lates-news/t…

Re:  Hand Jive.  I don't remember Lou or Paul taking a bolt kit on the 1st ascent.  (I'll double-check with Paul this weekend.)  Is rebolting necessary? 

Re:  Shillelagh.  Again, I don't remember any bolts at all. Is it just me have senior moments?  When I climbed it, we used a #10 chock on a long sling instead of a proper shillelagh like the first ascent did.   

Anyone been over to The Jewel or up to the top of Ingraham's Dihedral lately?  Bolts from the 70's must be showing their age.  

Dan you are the man for taking this on. The organs are such a special area. I do not have rebolting experience but I would love to help even if that just means helping carry in gear or a belay. Let me know if there's a way to contribute towards the cost of the bolts, thanks again man!

Karl and Luke, not sure if you saw the dates on these posts, but the last post in this thread was 8 years ago

As the climber that did most of the 1st ascents on the Tooth, I sure would be in favor of replacing some of the bolts. In 1973 I climbed the Chouinard Herbert route on Sentinel with Fred "will belay for food" Beckey and one of the original 1/4" bolts was used for a hanging belay, and both Fred and I were hanging from that bolt for a short while. Made even Fred pucker a bit. On the 1st ascent of the Great East Slabs, Dick Ingraham did a long runout without protection (120+ feet). On the 2nd ascent, I placed a bolt at 40 feet (easy climbing to that first bolt). George Goedecke placed another bolt, which I disagreed with vigorously, I was young and idealistic, and a bit stupid. He was right, of course.  I am a firm believer that reasonable safety is the best policy. Luckily, bolts are not as destructive as pitons. In '72 I climbed 'Nutcracker Suite' in Yosemite. It was Royal Robbins' (and his wife Liz) attempt to do an all clean first ascent, hoping that others would follow in his footsteps. We had been climbing clean for a few years by that time, and I looked forward to a route that was undamaged. Even though it was such a short time since the first ascent, I was shocked to see the route ruined with piton holes... a hole the size of a quarter in a 1/4" crack, one every 4 or 5 inches. So, now we are fretting over backing up bolts? As for the Shillelagh route on the Wedge, I did the second ascent with Dick Ingraham and Paul Wohlt, and Dick brought along a 2 ft branch in his pack, just in case a likely Shillelagh could not be found. No bolts were involved. But, I would love to see any current one replaced. I would not want to hang from any of the 1/4" bolts that I placed myself all these years later... life is too short.   Lee

FYI the tooth and some other routes have been rebolted.