Chad, nice to have met you last night at Chicks with Picks fundraiser for the Ouray Ice Park and your lady friend in Chris Noble's new book. Very cool. This picture of you following pitch seven is very exciting. So much ice! You even got a screw in. Really inspiring, can't wait to do another lap and climb so much ice. Still thin and dicey though.
Chad, I see you guys climbed route on a single strand. The leader can't possibly take advantage of all the protection possibilities if you neglect the obvious advantages of the double rope system. No small wonder that you did not use the two bolts on pitch five. When I led pitch 5 in the dark early this winter on double ropes, I found and clipped the first bolt then climbed a glorious sheet of paper thin ice right through the crux. This was just left of the bolt and right of the orange rotten rock we all climb when there is no ice. So the bolt we put in there perfectly protects that ice if one is lucky enough to arrive at that ice before the hordes kick it off or it sublimates away. In May, June, and July, the waterfall is in full glory, and any gear placed on the line directly that would suit a leader on a single strand will be clipping gear that has been underwater for months. Bolts and pins placed just out of the line of water, ice, and avalanches might last for more than a few seasons.