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Alabama Hills Bouldering??

Original Post
Halley Stocks · · Boulder, CO · Joined Oct 2010 · Points: 55

The description for Alabama Hills here on MP, states "Bouldering is plentiful," but then there is no description of the boulders. Does anyone have any info on the quality, quantity, density, access to bouldering in this area? I am looking into a job position in Lone Pine and curious about the accessibility to rock after work. Obviously there's plenty in Bishop for weekends but I won't want to make that drive every day for an hour or two of climbing on work days.

Ryan Kempf · · Boulder, CO · Joined Jul 2011 · Points: 371

Moving from slc to lone pine? Great climbing in the area, but have u spent time in town? Could be a huge culture shock...

To ur post I haven't bouldered there, but all the routes are relatively short/soloable if ur comfy at the grade n ur into that kinda stuff. Similar rock to Jtree.

Jon Rhoderick · · Redmond, OR · Joined Jul 2009 · Points: 966

I've heard the next town north has some pretty good bouldering

splitclimber · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2007 · Points: 18

others may know more than me, but I've found several areas with great bouldering, for the hills anyway ;).

some of the best is north out movie road beyond all the crags. you'll see dark brown patina boulders on each side of the road.

Other good spots are on the way out to Arizona dome, around cattle pocket area, before temple of kai on right side of road/path, and just beyond candy store.

Lots of hit and miss but lots to explore.

Guy Keesee · · Moorpark, CA · Joined Mar 2008 · Points: 349

Why did MP stick the Eastside in the Northeren Ca section.???????

Halley.... one of the best places to boulder, in the USA, is located just a little bit south of LP....

But the locals... have sworn me to total silence.... and I will keep my word.

There is soooooo much REAL CLIMBING around LP .... the bouldering is overlooked by most.

My MP photo was taken while we just walked around and did problems in the AH.

Fat Dad · · Los Angeles, CA · Joined Nov 2007 · Points: 60

I suspect the OP put this in No Cal since she's from out of state and it seemed north. In any event, while there's lots of good roped climbing in the AH, I've never had much luck finding good bouldering--mostly just the grainy, loose stuff. If other have had better luck, I'd take their word for it. I just have not had the time to investigate further.

Having said that, there is a ton of climbing around Lone Pine apart from the bouldering. Whitney Portal, Tuttle Creek, Owens Peak, the AH. If you're mostly interested in bouldering, it's not nearly as good as being in Bishop, but a ton a good roped climbing to be had nearby. Tough call.

One thing to consider is living further north and commuting. I once looked into a job listing for an Asst. DA position in Independence, where the court house is. The job listing stated that most people live in Bishop and then have a traffic free 45 min. commute to work and back. Seems like a lot, but I can easily blow that much time sitting in traffic on the way to work, without the killer scenery.

sulli Sullivan · · Lake Tahoe, Ca · Joined Jun 2006 · Points: 1,225

I did a 2 day bouldering recon trip to the Alabama hills in 2012... I found there to be a fair bit of bouldering possibilities but overall the area was uninspiring from a strictly bouldering angle. Of course it is a stunningly beautiful area to visit and everyone should check it out at least once, but the rock is extremely gritty; I found most clusters dominated by big, slabby, choss piles.

Im sure if someone wanted to put in the time there is some good stuff that could be developed, but overall I personally dont see this place ever becoming a worthy bouldering destination. <<< This is simply my opinion based on my own experience.





Phil Garrett · · Urbana, IL · Joined Jul 2016 · Points: 0

I'm going to bump this ancient thread, because I was just there and I found at least one good spot at "the loaf" cave. The entire boulder left of the cave probably has problems ranging from v3 to at least v5, and it's kinda highball, but pretty decent rock and challenging/fun.  I was pretty stoked to find two good ones on the right side of this boulder as you approach the rock shelter. This all goes without saying that the  loaf area  is also home to some classic easier sport routes, AND the camping in that area is really great.

Having then made the trip to the buttermilks the following week, i had a very different experience. I was taken directly to the good boulders by my phone. I really bet there's room for development at bama hills, even if it  has already seen some, because it's fairly vast. It seems like this place is trying to be a secret from the greater climbing community, which I think is understandable. Would love to hear about areas that have seen interesting ascents and whatnot. I think the best reason to go here, if bouldering, is for some adventure. Chances are, you'll find something, and it might even be really good. If it's not, keep looking. You'll probably find something that is. It probably won't be in a guidebook, and that's pretty cool too.

I enjoyed bouldering/adventure climbing here.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Northern California
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