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Photo 12 of 59
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Angle of dangle, from John Long's book How To Climb.
Long, shiny chains are easier to find under snow. As this is gully is subject to avalanches of spindrift if not worse, we thought the anchors would keep getting buried and would remain so if the route remained ignored as we were sure it would be.
Remember, when we started this project in 2011, this section of wall was being ignored. We just wanted climbers to leave the sunny side and join us on the DARK side. 30 years with no new routes seemed long enough.
We were afraid that climbers would ignore this route if stories circulated that the anchors were weak and impossible to find. Plus we did not want to install time bombs.
We have recently been abused by a well know SA guide who whined that he could not find the anchors on his failed attempt winter of '12/'13. Yet in next breath he complained he did not like the long, shiny chains that are easier to troll for when buried under snow.
But at this point, we plan on trimming chain, length and changing color. As for intermediate bolts, most are buried under snow. Good luck finding them. This year, unlike last year, the route is very wet, so we have a better feel for what bolts work and which we can "live" without.
May the force be with on the dark side.
Submitted By: Eric Wright on Jan 5, 2014
On this route:Snow Blind Friend, Walk the Line? (submitted as Attractive Hazard) (5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a WI4+ M6 X )