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Farley Ice Climbing?

Original Post
Avalon · · East Longmeadow MA · Joined Jun 2013 · Points: 50

I've heard that, pending conditions, upper Farley has decent climable ice. Anyone been here for ice? What is it currently look like? Thanks

paul y. · · SLC · Joined Sep 2011 · Points: 10

Used to ice climb there quite a bit. Generally speaking, the upper tier above the Wall of Early Morning light has most of the good ice. to the left of Peapod and to the left of Barndoor Crack are some good flows. The corner next to Connecticut cracks (?) to the right of J-Crack has ice. Just poke around and you'll find stuff. In my experience, the conditions have to be really good for the ice to be thick enough to lead. Regardless, it's really easy to top rope and get mileage. You might get lucky once and a while and have some bolts you can reach from climbable ice.

I haven't been up there lately but it's usually 'in' by January.

Be mindful that it's really best to wait for decent conditions and definitely not mix climb on the upper tier as we don't want to scratch the rock excessively. I guess the argument could be made that grid bolting a crag (not really the case on the upper tier anywway) doesn't look too nice either--- best to keep the gneiss nice.

Paul

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Northeastern States
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