Type: Trad, Aid, 80 ft (24 m)
FA: Ian McHenry (FFA Marshall Burke)
Page Views: 1,194 total · 7/month
Shared By: Ian McHenry on Jan 22, 2011
Admins: Big Red

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Warning Access Issue: Must walk through farmers' plots DetailsDrop down

Description Suggest change

Obvious, lone crack on big boulder on the right, visible from approach. This boulder is split in two with another project crack in the narrows of the split. Crack starts with small finger crack, then moves diagonally up right as crack widens to fist and bigger than fist size and overhangs slightly. This section was clean aided pulling on #3 and #4 cams on FA. Crack straightens at nice, sling-able flake and continues up and widens for 15 ft (#4 and #5 cams). Then, turns into tiny squeeze chimney (approx 18 in wide) that has a tiny knob you can sling half way up, but would be better with a #4 or #5 Big Bro. Chimney is approximately 20 ft before topping out. Single bolt with rap ring. Also, a decent chock stone that can be slinged to rappel onto project route. Bolt is Fixe Hardware 3/8" x 3", but 1cm of threads still showing. Should be plenty solid but could be replaced if the route ever gets serious traffic. Route sent free by Marshall Burke at 5.10b

Location Suggest change

Obvious, lone crack on big boulder on the right, visible from approach. Descent is a rappel from single bolt and rap ring or sling chockstone and rappel face.

Protection Suggest change

Doubles from #2-#5. Some 0.4-1 cams for first 30 ft. Big bro #4 or #5 for squeeze chimney. Single bolt with ring at top for rap descent.

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