Edelrid Mega Jul

According to the Edelrid customer service guy quoted above:

"Currently, the wires have an average separation value of 4.5 kN. When used correctly in accordance with instructions for use appear on the wire forces of up to 0.2 kN."

If the wires really have a separation value of 4.5 kN, then there's no way that the force applied with your thumb should be able to pull the wire out of the device. 4.5kN is over 1000 pounds of force. I can't imagine anyone other than Superman could exert over 1000 pounds of force with his thumb.

Kai Larson wrote:According to the Edelrid customer service guy quoted above: "Currently, the wires have an average separation value of 4.5 kN. When used correctly in accordance with instructions for use appear on the wire forces of up to 0.2 kN." If the wires really have a separation value of 4.5 kN, then there's no way that the force applied with your thumb should be able to pull the wire out of the device. 4.5kN is over 1000 pounds of force. I can't imagine anyone other than Superman could exert over 1000 pounds of force with his thumb.

It sounds like a problem of metal fatigue rather than strength of the brazing.

John Peters wrote: It sounds like a problem of metal fatigue rather than strength of the brazing.

The wires are held in by swaging the device from the bottom. Mine is not brazed.

If you're searching for an altrnative belaying device that can be used on very thin ropes, i sugest you take a look at this video:

WizzDemonstration

3D model of the prototype

Looks like a variant on the gri gri rather than an alternative to the mega jul.

It works like nothing already on the market. It takes single ropes from 13 to 7 mm, double ropes also.
There is no spring into it so no need for a big pull to engage it. Also it makes it lighter.
Going down is super smooth.
So it may look a bit like a grigri but it sure is not.
I admit it is not like the MegaJul either... But its range of use is from the Micro Jul to the MegaJul.
Have you watch the demo (could not imbed it as it is on dailyMotion). You can take a look at my other vids.

Fall Test video

Franck, very interesting. It kind of reminds me of the Wild Country SRC but with an additional moving handle rather than the handle being the frame of the device.

"There is no spring into it so no need for a big pull to engage it."

How well does it feeds rope out to a leader (since you only show pulling rope in, locking, and lowering while loaded)?

As long as you pull horizontally, it doesn't lock. (It is said in the demo but in french)
Once you're used to it, feeding rope is no problem.
If the leader yanks the rope sharply to clip, it will block (grigri also). In that case, you have to tilt the device and can give rope again.
If the leader falls in that specific case, no problem, unlike many accidents with the grigri when people grab it full hand to unblock it and feed rope.

I also use it for solo climbing,
self assured solo climbing

Looked more like a demo of how to get sucked into the first draw rather than showing how the device works.

Looks like spam.

Perhaps, I'm better at climbing and inventing than for videos.
My only hope is that someday it will be in the shops and you can use it and say, "Hé, this thing works great".

franck wrote:Perhaps, I'm better at climbing and inventing than for videos. My only hope is that someday it will be in the shops and you can use it and say, "Hé, this thing works great".

franck: Maybe you should start a new thread with details on your belay device and inform us on how the device works, what testing it has passed, and how it is better or different than other mechanical devices like the grigri instead of tacking on spam type posts to this thread.
It isn't even close to the size or function of the Mega Jul

DrApnea wrote: franck: Maybe you should start a new thread with details on your belay device and inform us on how the device works, what testing it has passed, and how it is better or different than other mechanical devices like the grigri instead of tacking on spam type posts to this thread. It isn't even close to the size or function of the Mega Jul

It´s been around a few years now on the internet, the function is more or less the same as the Hewbolt.

Scarpa (the U.S. distributor for Edelrid) sent me a new device under warranty.

Hope this is an isolated problem and doesn't happen again.

Happened again today.

This time, it is my Megajoule.

My belayer was lowering me off of a climb. Thumb loop broke off, just like the Microjoule.

I went out and bought a Petzl Reverso 4. These Edelrid devices are not yet ready for prime time.

Really too bad because I like their function. However, I can't keep using a belay/rappel device that constantly falls apart.

I have never encountered quality control issues like this with any other climbing gear I've ever used.

Kai Larson wrote:These Edelrid devices are not yet ready for prime time.

I agree. Mine is permanently retired. It is finicky about ropes and carabiners and has the potential for failure. It's not worth the hassle.

Picture of my latest Edelrid Mega Jul failure.

Same failure mode as the others.

Edelrid Mega Jul failure

Perhaps you'll consider using a caribiner with your next replacement?

Patrick Mulligan wrote:As another update, I connected with a rep for Edelrid this summer regarding the fact that my Jul was gouging my carabiners pretty badly. They are aware of the issue and plan on releasing a SS Belay biner next year that will address the issue completely.

So I have heard that this device will scratch up a belay biner considerably, but gouge? Do you mean worse than a scratch? Anyone have photos of a biner with some mileage when used in conjunction with a Mega/Micro Jul?

I'd be willing to use an extra biner to rap/lower with this device in order to prevent the damn thumb loop from breaking, but if it's gonna wreck my belay biner anyways then to hell with it.

Ray Pinpillage wrote:Perhaps you'll consider using a caribiner with your next replacement?

Why? Edelrid show the correct way to lower a leader is with the thumb loop.