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Aid Routes in Massachusetts

Original Post
Tyler Newcomb · · New York, New York | Boston · Joined Dec 2012 · Points: 81

Hello everyone, i am looking to get into aid climbing and i would like to know some places in massachusetts to do it. I have never aid climbed before so any info would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks, Tyler

M Sprague · · New England · Joined Nov 2006 · Points: 5,090

You could probably head to Farley. There are plenty of trad routes you could learn to aid on I would think, as long as you are doing clean aid.

john strand · · southern colo · Joined May 2008 · Points: 1,640

Pins at Quincy Quarries is A1..Nearby Rattlesnake Rocks has an A2 that's VERY steep

Mark Hudon · · Lives on the road · Joined Jul 2009 · Points: 420

It probably goes free now but the wall right of Cro-Magnon at Crow Hill was a fun aid route back in '76!

Mark Hudon · · Lives on the road · Joined Jul 2009 · Points: 420

Jane sounds familiar, maybe Fisherman's wall? The wall right of Cro-Magnon, a fairly long, gently overhung pitch? Hell, it was 1979 the last time I was there. I seem to remember it was called an A5 pitch but I had just climbed El Cap and didn't think it was much more than A3.

john strand · · southern colo · Joined May 2008 · Points: 1,640

There is a route there that was old school A5-50' plus fall (that's A2+ now..right ?
it was bolted,freed and chopped at 12c
Now i believe it's 12+ R by Tim Kemple

The route at Rattlesnake may still be aid ? i know i never even got close

Mark Hudon · · Lives on the road · Joined Jul 2009 · Points: 420

That's probably it.

S. Neoh · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2009 · Points: 35

I believe right of Cro-M would be Dune. Left of Cro is Absolute (.13, possibly X). TK had the FFA on Absolute. I think the FFA of Dune was done before his time. Eric's knowledge is needed on this one.

If you were to learn aid by aiding Jane on a busy day at Crow, lots of people might get rather upset, most of all Eric.

john strand · · southern colo · Joined May 2008 · Points: 1,640

I know mallery bolted and did the one right of Cromag..don't know who did it w/o

Nick Grant · · Tamworth, NH · Joined Oct 2012 · Points: 424

I'm looking at Steve Hendrick's and Sam Streibert's little 1976 guidebook (a classic!). Could the route you're thinking of be Bev's Bewilderment, A5? (FA: Henry Barber and Tom Hayden)

Mark Hudon · · Lives on the road · Joined Jul 2009 · Points: 420

For some reason Henry being associated with it rings a bell and I do remember A5 being bandied about although I thought it was only A3 after I did it.

jake 356 · · worcester · Joined Mar 2012 · Points: 0

There are a couple at crow I've heard of. The overhanging caveish feature at the left end of the cliff has a seam that runs up the back and out the roof. From what I've been told it goes at a2 and is pretty easy to set up a tr off good trees above. The other is mentioned in boston rocks 5.6 a2 seconds nightmare. Mark I believe the a5 you were talking about was fishermans folly. It was bolted and downgraded to a3, then chopped now goes at a5 ( from boston rocks)

Ben Kessel · · Watertown, MA · Joined Jan 2014 · Points: 0

I'm also thinking that this might be a good time to try to learn to aid climb. Hit me up if you're looking for a partner. I hear there's also a good number of aid routes in NH.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Big Wall and Aid Climbing
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