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Tyler Newcomb
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Dec 17, 2013
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New York, New York | Boston
· Joined Dec 2012
· Points: 81
Hello everyone, i am looking to get into aid climbing and i would like to know some places in massachusetts to do it. I have never aid climbed before so any info would be greatly appreciated. Thanks, Tyler
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M Sprague
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Dec 17, 2013
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New England
· Joined Nov 2006
· Points: 5,090
You could probably head to Farley. There are plenty of trad routes you could learn to aid on I would think, as long as you are doing clean aid.
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john strand
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Dec 17, 2013
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southern colo
· Joined May 2008
· Points: 1,640
Pins at Quincy Quarries is A1..Nearby Rattlesnake Rocks has an A2 that's VERY steep
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Mark Hudon
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Dec 17, 2013
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Lives on the road
· Joined Jul 2009
· Points: 420
It probably goes free now but the wall right of Cro-Magnon at Crow Hill was a fun aid route back in '76!
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Mark Hudon
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Dec 18, 2013
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Lives on the road
· Joined Jul 2009
· Points: 420
Jane sounds familiar, maybe Fisherman's wall? The wall right of Cro-Magnon, a fairly long, gently overhung pitch? Hell, it was 1979 the last time I was there. I seem to remember it was called an A5 pitch but I had just climbed El Cap and didn't think it was much more than A3.
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john strand
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Dec 18, 2013
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southern colo
· Joined May 2008
· Points: 1,640
There is a route there that was old school A5-50' plus fall (that's A2+ now..right ? it was bolted,freed and chopped at 12c Now i believe it's 12+ R by Tim Kemple The route at Rattlesnake may still be aid ? i know i never even got close
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Mark Hudon
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Dec 18, 2013
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Lives on the road
· Joined Jul 2009
· Points: 420
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S. Neoh
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Dec 18, 2013
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Unknown Hometown
· Joined Oct 2009
· Points: 35
I believe right of Cro-M would be Dune. Left of Cro is Absolute (.13, possibly X). TK had the FFA on Absolute. I think the FFA of Dune was done before his time. Eric's knowledge is needed on this one. If you were to learn aid by aiding Jane on a busy day at Crow, lots of people might get rather upset, most of all Eric.
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john strand
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Dec 18, 2013
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southern colo
· Joined May 2008
· Points: 1,640
I know mallery bolted and did the one right of Cromag..don't know who did it w/o
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Nick Grant
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Dec 19, 2013
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Tamworth, NH
· Joined Oct 2012
· Points: 424
I'm looking at Steve Hendrick's and Sam Streibert's little 1976 guidebook (a classic!). Could the route you're thinking of be Bev's Bewilderment, A5? (FA: Henry Barber and Tom Hayden)
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Mark Hudon
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Dec 19, 2013
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Lives on the road
· Joined Jul 2009
· Points: 420
For some reason Henry being associated with it rings a bell and I do remember A5 being bandied about although I thought it was only A3 after I did it.
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jake 356
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Dec 20, 2013
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worcester
· Joined Mar 2012
· Points: 0
There are a couple at crow I've heard of. The overhanging caveish feature at the left end of the cliff has a seam that runs up the back and out the roof. From what I've been told it goes at a2 and is pretty easy to set up a tr off good trees above. The other is mentioned in boston rocks 5.6 a2 seconds nightmare. Mark I believe the a5 you were talking about was fishermans folly. It was bolted and downgraded to a3, then chopped now goes at a5 ( from boston rocks)
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Ben Kessel
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Jan 16, 2014
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Watertown, MA
· Joined Jan 2014
· Points: 0
I'm also thinking that this might be a good time to try to learn to aid climb. Hit me up if you're looking for a partner. I hear there's also a good number of aid routes in NH.
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