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New Salt Lake Training Area

Original Post
Brendan N · · Salt Lake City, Utah · Joined Oct 2006 · Points: 405

I was surprised reading through the Earthtreks Golden thread how many people didn't know about the project until it was nearly open. I had been following it on Facebook and realized that many people aren't as gym nerdy as me. In the interest of spreading the word and getting feedback on how to create a world-class training facility I wanted to show off the one I have been working on this last year.
Salt Lake has always been the home of the humble hardman and I hope this new facility, opening in a couple of months, will elevate the level of our climbers even further.
The really unique aspect of this project is that it was envisioned as an extension, not a clone, of the first facility. The terrain and training area are meant to take climbers further than they could go at the current facility. This idea of progression is what the training forum is all about, so I thought it would interest you.

The highlights of the training area:

  • 26'x15' 45-degree Woody, every T-Nut filled.
  • 2x6' wide floating campus boards
  • Pegboard
  • 12'x12' Adjustable Systems Wall. (30-50 degree)
  • Crossfit Style lifting system by Rogue
  • 30' long Poutre
  • Rings and Atomik Bombs

Training Area Walkthrough
Roped Climbing Walkthrough
Bouldering Area Walkthrough

Momentum Millcreek

Momentum Millcreek

Momentum Millcreek

Momentum Millcreek Bouldering

Momentum Millcreek Bouldering

Momentum Millcreek Training
Austin Baird · · SLC, Utah · Joined Apr 2009 · Points: 95

Is it possible to give a two month window when we could expect it to open up?

Edited to add: Because I've been watching these videos and following the FB page for a while now and everything looks awesome!

Monomaniac · · Morrison, CO · Joined Oct 2006 · Points: 17,295

Brendan, that training area looks sick! It looks like you've thought of everything....

Brendan N · · Salt Lake City, Utah · Joined Oct 2006 · Points: 405

Thanks Mono, we are very excited to bring your level of training excitement to Salt Lake City. The above post looks like vaporware but we are in full swing making our dreams a reality.

campus building

big woody

Dustin Drake · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2012 · Points: 5

Wow, that looks amazing.

Brendan N · · Salt Lake City, Utah · Joined Oct 2006 · Points: 405

. . . and now our boulder exists in real life. The steep face has 26' of climbing from bottom to top at an angle of 62 degrees.

Momentum Millcreek Boulder

Austin Baird · · SLC, Utah · Joined Apr 2009 · Points: 95

How high is that boulder?

JCM · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2008 · Points: 115

Aside from the training area (which looks like it has just about everything you could ask for), the design of the rest of the gym looks brilliant too. It looks like the lead walls offer a good combination of consistent, steep angles while still having a fair bit of variety in the terrain. This tradeoff is something that has been a topic of discussion recently over here in the Front Range. Our new mega-gym (Earth Treks) has a fantastic variety to the terrain (roofs, aretes, arches, and so on), but lacks a consistent, moderately overhanging (say, 25 degrees) lead wall. The other mega-gym in the area (Movement) is the exact opposite, with really steady consistent angles, but at the expense of having flat wall without much built-in variety. It looks like the new Momentum gym design offers the best of both worlds. The bouldering looks great too. Salt Lake is lucky to be getting such a well thought-out (and huge) new gym.

slim · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2004 · Points: 1,103

that looks absolutely awesome.

CareBear M · · Worcester, MA · Joined Jun 2011 · Points: 0

Rough estimate of when it will open?

frankstoneline · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2009 · Points: 30
CareBear wrote:Rough estimate of when it will open?
Brendan N · · Salt Lake City, Utah · Joined Oct 2006 · Points: 405

The bouldering will max out at 15'6" off the pads, some will be slightly lower.
We are aiming for a March opening.

Brendan N · · Salt Lake City, Utah · Joined Oct 2006 · Points: 405

Bouldering area has been finished up. The emphasis is on flat walls to utilize volumes.

Momentum Millcreek Bouldering

Brendan N · · Salt Lake City, Utah · Joined Oct 2006 · Points: 405

We got our System Wall outfitted with Atomik holds
The three colors correspond to Beginner, Intermediate, and Advanced.
The wall is at 30 degrees overhanging and tilts to 50 in 5-degree increments.

system wall

SM Ryan · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2008 · Points: 1,090

So Brendan- are you going to schedule a training overview class so I can learn how to put together a system session to send my projects :)

ben jammin · · Moab, UT · Joined Jul 2008 · Points: 852

Wow! Looks great. I've never wanted to climb/train inside until I saw this.

Brendan N · · Salt Lake City, Utah · Joined Oct 2006 · Points: 405

We are working with Steve Maisch on some 'how-to' videos for all of the training implements.

Brendan N · · Salt Lake City, Utah · Joined Oct 2006 · Points: 405

Pads are in, people seem psyched, hope you can make a visit.

Momentum Millcreek completed

Momentum Millcreek System Wall

Monomaniac · · Morrison, CO · Joined Oct 2006 · Points: 17,295

Looks baller Brendan, nice work! Hope to check it out some day.

PS, should have a book heading your way, let me know if you don't get it.

Will S · · Joshua Tree · Joined Nov 2006 · Points: 1,061

I'm envious, would love to have a systems board like that available to me...both as a climber and as a trainer of others, as well as that "every t-nut filled" 45, that thing is sick and seems ideal for trying to come up with 1-2 move limit level power bouldering stuff for a variety of people during a session.

Nice work there, gotta be satisfying seeing the plans come to life.

5.samadhi Süñyātá · · asheville · Joined Jul 2013 · Points: 40

hey Brendon I was there for the grand opening if that's the right gym then thinking about. Looks same at least. if I had known in advance that you were working on this project I would have love to meet you.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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