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Old New Place Rock Climbing

Climbing Area Map

Routes in Old New Place

L › R R › L A › Z

	4-Star Arete TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
	Bee Sting T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Berserker T,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	Crucifriction TR 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
	Direct Start to Bee Sting TR 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
	Direct Start to Route 10 TR 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	God Route (aka Mike's Route) T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Gulf Stream T,TR 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
	High Roof Left T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
	High Roof Right T,TR 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Jet Stream T,TR 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c X
	Momentum T,TR 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Rattlesnake Crack (aka Sidewinder) T,TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
	Route 10 T,TR 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
	Route 16 T,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	Route 17 T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
	Route 19 T,TR 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
	Route 20 T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
	Route 7 T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Sinewave (aka S Crack) T,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
	Songs of Love TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
	Tetherball T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Total Abstinence T,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
	Unnamed T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

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Elevation:	6,400 ft
GPS:	35.81856, -106.18779 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views:	25,877 total · 128/month
Shared By:	Jason Halladay on Sep 27, 2007
Admins:	Jason Halladay, Mike Hoskins, Anna Brown Page Updates (admin only)

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Description

The Old New Place is an east-facing basalt wall about 60 feet in height that offers many great crack lines for gear-protected leading or top roping. There are now bolted anchors here as a result of many of the cliff-top trees, that were traditionally used here as anchors, dying. Additionally, blocks and cracks near the cliff edge can be use to establish gear anchors.
The ONP doesn't see a lot of traffic but there are some wonderful crack lines to be climbed here.
Like all the areas in White Rock canyon, placement of new bolts is strongly discouraged as per a long-standing agreement of local climbers. The Los Alamos Mountaineers maintain a copy of the original agreement (1989) along with the amended agreement (2004) that allows for bolted anchors but still discourages new bolted lines.

Getting There

From NM4, turn south on Rover Blvd. Turn left on the first street on your left, Meadow Lane. Stay on Meadow Lane for 1.3 miles and park near 719 Meadow Lane. Please respect the homeowners and don't block mailboxes or driveways. A concrete public access trail heads down between 719 and 721 Meadow Lane. You'll know you're on the correct trail if two large, seemingly nasty, Golden Retriever dogs are barking at you. At the end of the concrete veer slightly left and continue straight towards the cliffs following a good climber's trail down off the top of the cliff. As you start to descend off the cliff top, the Old New Place will be visible as the large cliff face to your left. Descend about 30 feet on the climber's trail and head left along the base of the cliff.

24 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Old New Place

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.

5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a 23 ● Bee Sting Trad, TR
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a 10 ● Route 17 Trad, TR
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a 25 ● High Roof Left Trad, TR
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a 13 ● High Roof Right Trad, TR
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a 8 ● Direct Start to Route 10 TR
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b 19 ● Route 10 Trad, TR
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b 13 ● Tetherball Trad, TR
5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b 7 ● Route 19 Trad, TR
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c 4 ● God Route (aka Mike's Route) Trad, TR
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c 8 ● Berserker Trad, TR
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c 13 ● Rattlesnake Crack (aka Sidewinder) Trad, TR
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c 4 ● 4-Star Arete TR
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a 9 ● Sinewave (aka S Crack) Trad, TR
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R 4 ● Total Abstinence Trad, TR