Oyster Dome
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Hey everybody, I'm hunting for some information. I've heard from a few people that there are some bolted lines on Oyster Dome, but am having a hard time finding much beyond that. There's this high quality (jokes) topo on rc.com , but I'm looking for some better descriptions. What guidebook should I be searching for? Or does someone have this already pieced together, and is just waiting to add the info on mp? |
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It is generally refered to as the Bat Caves when talking about climbing. Never climbed there myself, but here is some info on summit post. Summit post Bat Caves |
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I was searching for some info on that too a couple years ago. I even hiked to the top with ropes to rapp it, but didn't end up doing it. The rock looked a little chossy and I also ready the routes were pretty stiff, I think in the high 11's or 12's. |
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There is an old guidebook written by Jason Henrie in the 90s that has some information, but is tough to track down. I think the WWU OC has (had?) one, or maybe the WWU Library. |
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There are three guidebooks, the one you named being the most current and hardest to find. One of the two previous was dedicated to just the Bat Caves--that one is available at the downtown branch of the Bellingham public library. The are gets little traffic, the rock is sharp and some of the anchors are funky (Kris' Crack). Most of the routes, if I remember, are 5.10-11. Of course there is Meltdown, the 12d beast running the saw-toothed arete... |
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I was actually up there about 2 years. We checked out meltdown and a 3 pitch route to the climbers left. The first pitch was super over grown, but after that it was pretty clean. I think it' was 5.9-11c-10c. Good route though! We also found two very old school REI biners on the anchors too. |
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I climbed there a few days this past year, mostly on the upper terraces. The routes are awesome; I was mostly just doing mini traxion laps but it was a blast. A couple words of advice: don't climb there right after the rain. The rock is already pretty flakey on some of the routes, and is liable to blow if it's at all soggy (sandstone), plus the moss and lichen can be bad, though I cleaned up the holds on a couple of the shadiest and most overgrown routes. Consider bringing a couple of bolt hangers and nuts as there are a couple anchors where they are missing, though these are the minority. Best additional advice: Approach from the Samish Overlook area, not from Chuckanut drive. Decent driving directions are posted here: overlook but you're on your own for trail directions (take some horse trail followed by max's shortcut, then cut a hard left at a wetland/lake) Google Earth is your friend if you get lost. |
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WARNING: The word is many of those bolts were placed by someone who used many hardware store bolts that were not rated for climbing. Do not trust any bolts there. It is sandstone in a marine environment and these have not been actively maintained. You could use rigging rope off of trees to top-rope off the ledges on the summit. There is also potential for some trad there. The bat caves are closed to protect the bats so approaching from the top is probably better too. |