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Slumps

Original Post
Mark E Dixon · · Possunt, nec posse videntur · Joined Nov 2007 · Points: 974

I had a bad slump earlier this year, and a few of my climbing buds are in a bit of a slump at the moment. I'm expecting another myself one of these days. I'm wondering if anyone has any particular insights or strategies for dealing with the setback and frustrations?
I know I tend to try to hang on to my grade level of climbing and that leads me to gradually climb more poorly until I accept the fact I'm in a slump and focus on climbing well at whatever level I can manage, even if the number grade has to go down some. Eventually I get better, but it'd be nice to short cut the process!
I don't periodize, and maybe this is my body's way of saying take a break.

camhead · · Vandalia, Appalachia · Joined Jun 2006 · Points: 1,240

I've experienced more slumps, physically and mentally, than I can even keep track of. Sometimes you're psyched, sometimes you're not, and the interplay between your body and mind is affected by that.

Go for variety-- take road trip, switch from trad to bouldering, or from sport to trad, or whatever. Go for mileage days or contrive some link-ups of routes that you have dialed. Bring beer to the crag. Hell, even take a week or two off.

And above all, remember that, short of some major physical setback, or your quitting climbing, the slump will end and you'll continue to improve.

Hank Caylor · · Livin' in the Junk! · Joined Dec 2003 · Points: 643

Climbing slumps usually go unnoticed if you do other stuff. Kayaking, Trailrunning, Mtn. Biking,skiing/boarding or whatever etc. Only my thought and worth absolutely nothing.

Mark E Dixon · · Possunt, nec posse videntur · Joined Nov 2007 · Points: 974
Cactus Moonshine wrote:Slump. Could you be more clear in defining 'slump'? Is it a motivation issue, a performance issue, or a mix of both?
Totally performance. I'm almost always motivated, can't say for my friends. I'd climb every day if I could.

Good points about switching things up. Even within climbing, I think moving from sport to trad to aid or whatever would help.
flynn · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2002 · Points: 25

Everything said to this point has merit. A number of years ago, I was climbing my brains out: did Half Dome, got insanely strong, climbed a lot of hard, good stuff. Until August, when burnout set in. I couldn't get psyched, and when I did, I didn't climb well. So I started cycling and hiking, anything but climbing. When I came back a few weeks later, I did better than ever.

Anything that matters to you, that you do for a long time, or at a high level will fluctuate. I'm also a musician. There are days I can't play a wrong note, and days when I can't buy a right one. Nothing lasts forever, not even slumps. Ultimately, we all have many more good days than bad. Try not to let it get you too far down. It sounds like you're on a plateau, maybe, and/or that your body really is asking you for a change. So give it a change.

Mark E Dixon · · Possunt, nec posse videntur · Joined Nov 2007 · Points: 974
flynn wrote:It sounds like you're on a plateau, maybe, and/or that your body really is asking you for a change. So give it a change.
Actually, I may be climbing better ever. But have been through slumps and thought I'd get some suggestions.

Variety is a great idea, although it means giving up all the glorious dreams of "sends to come" for a while.

As for other sports, it's funny, but my kids aren't into lead climbing, so we have done other stuff- caving, canyoneering, parkour, even scrambling on 14ers, and it's been great doing stuff that I would never have even considered otherwise.
Carlos Garcia · · Truckee, CA · Joined Apr 2008 · Points: 7,047

Take a scheduled complete break from climbing (including all media).

Your body and mind are whispering now. Later they will shout.

slim · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2004 · Points: 1,103

it sounds like it is time to re-build the machine!

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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