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Sly Lie (aka Sly Corner)
5.11 YDS 6c+ French 23 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 23 ZA E4 5c British
Avg: 2.3 from 12
votes
Routes in Hanging Chain
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Battery Brides T,S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Big Corner T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Dogz and drillz T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Excavation Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Fairhope S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Hanging Chain T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Krispy Kreme T,S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Lavender Dream T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R |
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Lessons Learned T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Little People T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Love Wig S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Not-so Great Arch, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Organized Confusion S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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OW 5.8R T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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Plastic Fish T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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Remote Control Cockroach T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Sly Hooks (aka Sly Truths) T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Sly Lie (aka Sly Corner) T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Spiders & Snakes T 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a |
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Spry Look S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Talk This Way T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Toys in the Attic T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Truth or Dare T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13 |
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Unknown T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R |
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Walk This Way T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Weed-wack Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Zealot Shout - 1st pitch T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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| Type: | Trad, 100 ft (30 m) |
| FA: | Nathan Brown - belayed by TS / direct finish - rope solo |
| Page Views: | 1,789 total · 12/month |
| Shared By: | nbrown on Jan 1, 2012 |
| Admins: | Ky Bishop, Steve Lineberry, Aaron Parlier |
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Description
This is a fun route with varied climbing. Of the two lines here, this is the one that was established without prior TR rehearsal (although we did look at it briefly). It was originally done late in the day after finishing up another project, so time was of essence. The route was established in about an hour, and with one point of aid at the base of the corner since the gear was originally poor, and the park was about to close. It was repointed solo a few days later. The sketchy gear was improved at the start of the corner (we'd actually considered a bolt previously).
Also, a couple months ago we discussed the possibility of the line finishing directly up instead of traversing out right (we'd originally considered this). The route now finishes this way, past an additional bolt.
P-1
Start same as for Sly Hooks. Climb past same 2 bolts to the ledge. Move up past gear and a bolt into the corner on great jugs. Get some crucial gear here (.5 camelot - see picture) and work out a funky move into the corner. Climb it to the top. From here climb up past 2 more bolts to an anchor. Two options exist for the finish - straight up is about 11c, right and up is 11a or so.
Also, a couple months ago we discussed the possibility of the line finishing directly up instead of traversing out right (we'd originally considered this). The route now finishes this way, past an additional bolt.
P-1
Start same as for Sly Hooks. Climb past same 2 bolts to the ledge. Move up past gear and a bolt into the corner on great jugs. Get some crucial gear here (.5 camelot - see picture) and work out a funky move into the corner. Climb it to the top. From here climb up past 2 more bolts to an anchor. Two options exist for the finish - straight up is about 11c, right and up is 11a or so.
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