Groover at LG

I have had my eye on Groover for quite some time now and really want to get on it soon. I know that it is quite a commitment with the hike in, 900ft of climbing and the hike out. I know that after the first pitch you cant bail until the top of the 5th pitch. My question is what is the climbing like. What are some routes in the area that are similar (Nose, Sundial, fruit loops). I know there is one pitch of 5.8 or so, is this 5.8 pitch a tough pitch or is it more the exposure and the fact that your a long way from help?

Does anyone have recommendations for gear (I have doubles from micros to BD#3, two sets of nuts, a few offsets and some tricams)? single rope or double? can you do all the rapells with a single 60m rope?

Thanks for any help in advance. It looks like a classic line and I cant wait to get on it, I just want to be prepared and not be one of those guys who people talk about on mountainproject because they got in over their head and got in trouble.

Photocodo

"My question is what is the climbing like."

Mostly easy and runout. High-friction slabby corner groove-thing, unlike those Glass routes or certainly Fruit Loops. You need to be able to climb a long ways on easy terrain without looking down and letting yourself get freaked out. The corner allows for some gear, and occasional bolts exist, but you're in no-fall terrain a lot. Fortunately, most of it is non-desperate.

Rack/rope questions are for others, I don't remember much.

As far as getting it al into your day....the alpinists have this saying about how no one ever regrets getting up too early, but plenty of folks regret getting up too late. If you are not a real efficient climber of long routes, maybe go and see how many lines you can do on the Glass or something for a couple days and when you're feeling good about how things are flowing, then go to Laurel. And maybe spend a hiking day wiring the approach, if you think it'll be a problem?

the hike in takes me 45 minutes...maybe an hour if you get a bit lost or are moving a bit slow. About an hour fifteen out. Cant say much about the route as i havent climbed it.

Usually Knob routes single set of cams and some draws and maybe some offset nuts/tricams.

Sensemilla sunset is the closest LG route that mimicks the head game of the knob that i can think of. Definitely two ropes to rap for almost all knob routes. Epic'ing has its own charm, just be safe and bring a headlamp/wind jacket and some food.

Groover is actually pretty protectable until you get to P4, which has the only serious runout section. The rack you describe should be plenty. P5 (the original finish) is the crux pitch (5.9 in my book); it's also the only pitch with any bolts. Route-finding on P6 can be tricky.

I agree with rock_fencer, you really need two ropes to make the raps, and keep your eyes peeled as you're rapping as it doesn't follow a plumb line and missing a rap station can mean anything from minor aggravation to a major ordeal.

If you can make the approach in 45 minutes, my hat's off to you. It took me and my partner 2+ hours hiking in and 3+ hours hiking out. Like Rob said, start early and come prepared.

JL

The approach will take you at least 1:15 to get to that side of the wall (the other end). I did it a lot, and I never got below an hour, even with all the shortcuts.

Sounds like you've already gotten gear beta. I'll add, that in general, at laurel you typically won't find a lot of gear, and sometimes what you do get is creative (tricam in solution holes, etc). Point is, you wanna have a good versatile rack, because you sure as hell don't wanna have to skip anything.

A water filter can be nice to have, but right now you might have a hard time finding any water (normally there is one right below groover).

yeah i should say it take me 45 minutes to get to the neighborhood trail that runs the length of the cliff and not to the base of groover.

Seconds could be another LK moderate to consider. I haven't climbed it personally but it seems less committing than Groover considering you can rappel from any belay on the route (someone please correct me if I'm wrong). Its been said several times but I'll reiterate it once more, start the approach early! My first time to LK we planned on climbing Groover and couldn't really find a trail to the base so we just bushwhacked to the base of Fathom and climbed it instead. Fathom is also a great route, most of the slab is pretty moderate and the 5.10 crux is very well protected with several bolts if I remember correctly. I do remember climbing a water groove still running and having to plug cams in wet horizontals with moss inside and water running over!

I would bring a second rope or tag line for sure.

Most pitches are reasonably protected, but as noted, you usually want to place it where you can get it.

P4 gets serious, but the actual climbing is easy. P5 gets your head working but the bolts are reasonably spaced - they were added at the request of the FA party. I also found a decent cam above the bolts on P5, but I still wouldn't have wanted to fall. Also this pitch seeps water - the groove was wet when I did it but there are feet on the outer edges of the groove too.

Double 60m ropes mandatory!

Second set of cams depends on how confident you are with your nut and tricam craft. It's worth noting that most pitches are rope stretchers.

This time of year, I would plan to start hiking maybe 30 min before dawn, no earlier unless you have the approach wired

Groover is one of my favorite routes anywhere.
Easy and well protected corner/slab to the big "ledge"....Eat lunch here.
Some 'heads up' traversing/downclimbing then up the very positive, runout watergroove to a bomber belay.
Take the first groove for a spicier version.
Then a glory pitch to the rap lane or to the top.

The approach takes me 1 hour to the right of the main part of LK at a stroll, then another 30 minutes to Groover at a fairly sustained pace.

The perfect rack would be one set of cams with doubles in offset Mastercams.
Stoppers are almost useless but can be placed, tricams are very worthwhile.
Make sure to take 3-4" cam(s) for your high, left piece on the runout pitch.
Double ropes or tag line should be considered mandatory for virtually every LK route....I like having a skinny single/half/twin paired with a half/twin rope....very versatile at LK.

Kidda is on it concerning timing....
You'll probably use every bit of daylight if this is one of your first LK jaunts.
Also, be sure to dress appropriately....you'll experience the full range of temps on LK, this time of year, if it's sunny.

The rabbit forgot to mention the 5th pitch, put the stronger leader on that one. Its a little heady.

Hey Kidda, hate to correct you but the bolts on the direct finish were not added on Groover at the request of Jeep. He refused any attempt to show up and challenge our claim of an FA of that variation pitch. Your old heroes seem to die hard! Any buddy interested in replacing one of Jeeps top down routes in Tallulah that was mysteriously chopped?