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Schist Another Sport Climb
5.8+ YDS 5b French 16 Ewbanks VI- UIAA 15 ZA HVS 4c British
Avg: 1.7 from 97
votes
Routes in New Wave
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Air and Pleasant Danger S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Barking Spiders S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Black Dog Crack S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Cold Wave S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Dark Star S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a |
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Daytripper, The S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Daze of Dark Scrutiny S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b |
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Night Crawler S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Paradox S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Retrospade S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Roaring Silence S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Salley's Alley S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Sam Spade T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Schist Another Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Schist Another Sport Climb S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Short Wave S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Smokestack S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Strict Scrutiny S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a |
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Ten of Spades S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Today Morning S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Vallee Daze S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Weevil Knievil S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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| Type: | Sport, 40 ft (12 m) |
| FA: | Jim Shimberg |
| Page Views: | 1,637 total · 9/month |
| Shared By: | MattWallace on Nov 13, 2009 |
| Admins: | Jay Knower, M Sprague, Lee Hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan S, Robert Hall |
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Description
This route is fun with good holds everywhere except at the crux. Start on the easy slab under the first bolt work your way up clipping off of a good undercling. Trend right up easy ground past another bolt, then clip the third bolt, just above a ledge, this is where the crux begins. Move left on underclings these moves can feel extremely compressed, there is a small foot on the face that is usable. Continue moving left on the ledge in funky compressed moves until it is possible to stand up and clip the next bolt, continue over the bulge with one or two more thought provoking moves. Then continue up the easy often wet top to the chains.
The new guide book has this listed at 5.7 but Jim told me it was 5.9 before the book came out so I have adjusted it to meet in the middle.
The new guide book has this listed at 5.7 but Jim told me it was 5.9 before the book came out so I have adjusted it to meet in the middle.
Location
On the New Wave wall, on the smaller section to the right, this is the right most bolted route, just left of the dirty gully that makes the trad route of Schist Another Crack.
To access this part of the cliff when you get to New Wave proper and the trail splits, left goes to New Wave go right as if heading to the Kennel Wall there will be three bolted routes here on the left of the trail, this route is the right most route.
To access this part of the cliff when you get to New Wave proper and the trail splits, left goes to New Wave go right as if heading to the Kennel Wall there will be three bolted routes here on the left of the trail, this route is the right most route.
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