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Routes in Orange Crush
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Anaconda-Da-Vida S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Black Mamba S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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British Airways S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Buried Treasure S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Captain Hook S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Chinese Water Torture S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Citrasolve S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Crusher, The S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Drillary Step, The S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Dynosoar S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Fish Hooks S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Flying Monkeys S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Fresh Squeezed S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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King Cobra S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Lions and Tigers and Bears S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Oh My! finish S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Opportunist, The S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Orangahang S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Orange Crush (retro-bolted) S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Orange Sunshine S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Original Orange Crush, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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Peter Pan S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Predator S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Prime Climb S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Purple Microdot S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Sir Edmond Drillary S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Tin Man S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Tin Monkeys S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Tinkerbell S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Tropicana S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Vaporizer, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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White Snake S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a |
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| Type: | Sport |
| FA: | Ward Smith, 1998 |
| Page Views: | 59,429 total · 280/month |
| Shared By: | Jay Knower on Nov 8, 2006 |
| Admins: | Jay Knower, M Sprague, Lee Hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan S, Robert Hall |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Description
You have seen images of this unmistakeable overhanging prow in magazines, on guidebook covers, and in climbing videos. You have wondered where this amazing piece of rock could possibly exist.
The climb is called The Predator and it exists at Orange Crush.
Long and steadily overhanging, but with few stopper moves, Predator is a popular first 13b. However, getting to the base is involved. Climb the first pitch of Tropicana (11a) and belay at two eye bolts on a perfect flat ledge. It is also possible to access this ledge from the left, starting up The Crusher and traversing straight around the corner to the ledge. If one pulls on bolts, it's possible to do this in approach shoes (5.6 A0).
After getting a vote of confidence from your belayer, it's time to head upward. The start holds a few 5.10ish moves and the climbing quickly turns to 5.8 jug hauling. A sit-down rest provides an opprtunity to regroup and consider the hanging prow. Though actually about 45 degrees overhanging, the perspective from the rest suggests that the prow is much steeper. A hard pull gains the prow after which crimps and deadpoints continue until the final crux sequence.
This crux involves a big deadpoint, or for style points, a most-points off dyno to a jug. Energy sapping moves on the arete proper lead to the lip. The topout, though mentally and physically taxing, is recommended by some and required by others. The choice is yours, but you are the one who has to look yourself in the mirror in the morning.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jtrg4VaeHCs&feature=plcp
The climb is called The Predator and it exists at Orange Crush.
Long and steadily overhanging, but with few stopper moves, Predator is a popular first 13b. However, getting to the base is involved. Climb the first pitch of Tropicana (11a) and belay at two eye bolts on a perfect flat ledge. It is also possible to access this ledge from the left, starting up The Crusher and traversing straight around the corner to the ledge. If one pulls on bolts, it's possible to do this in approach shoes (5.6 A0).
After getting a vote of confidence from your belayer, it's time to head upward. The start holds a few 5.10ish moves and the climbing quickly turns to 5.8 jug hauling. A sit-down rest provides an opprtunity to regroup and consider the hanging prow. Though actually about 45 degrees overhanging, the perspective from the rest suggests that the prow is much steeper. A hard pull gains the prow after which crimps and deadpoints continue until the final crux sequence.
This crux involves a big deadpoint, or for style points, a most-points off dyno to a jug. Energy sapping moves on the arete proper lead to the lip. The topout, though mentally and physically taxing, is recommended by some and required by others. The choice is yours, but you are the one who has to look yourself in the mirror in the morning.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jtrg4VaeHCs&feature=plcp
Protection
Bolts. Draws are fixed. On redpoint attempts, a climber usually clips every other draw on the prow. The fall is the definition of clean.
A 60 meter rope is necessary for lowering from the top to the ground. If you would like to lower back to the ledge, have your belayer lower you to the fork of the spindly tree (staying on-belay, of course). Then have your belayer throw you a loop of rope to haul you in.
A 60 meter rope is necessary for lowering from the top to the ground. If you would like to lower back to the ledge, have your belayer lower you to the fork of the spindly tree (staying on-belay, of course). Then have your belayer throw you a loop of rope to haul you in.
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