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Mescalito Cleanup

Original Post
Mark Hudon · · Lives on the road · Joined Jul 2009 · Points: 420

Late in September, Max Jones and I climbed the first two pitches of Mescalito and removed 45 deadheads and 15 copperheads. We removed only the heads that we could climb past using clean, hammerless methods. At one point I removed three deadheads, one on top of another, to reveal an easy, bombproof small cam placement. In many cases, there were 10 deadhead in 24 inches!
We only had time for the first two pitches but the next few look equally abused and could use some love.

Deadheads and heads and a couple of pins that were not needed.

Deadheads

Ryan Nevius · · Perchtoldsdorf, AT · Joined Dec 2010 · Points: 1,837

Rad! What kind of method(s) are you using to get out some of those deadheads?

Gargano · · Arizona · Joined Jan 2011 · Points: 1,535

Removing copperheads: supertopo.com/climbing/thre…

John McNamee · · Littleton, CO · Joined Jul 2002 · Points: 1,690

Thanks for the community service Mark.

Ryan Nevius · · Perchtoldsdorf, AT · Joined Dec 2010 · Points: 1,837

Thanks, Gargano. I should have known to check the Taco.

Gargano wrote:Removing copperheads: supertopo.com/climbing/thre…
Mark Hudon · · Lives on the road · Joined Jul 2009 · Points: 420

I would like to caution you to remove only the heads you can climb past via clean, hammerless means. Also, if you are ten feet tall, and can reach past them, that doesn't exactly qualify. I try to think of the average climber on the particular route I'm on. I would clean heads differently if I were on the Sea of Dreams than if I were on Zodiac. I also never take out a head if I can get past if via some C4 badass cam or nut placement.

Deadheads though are totally fair game since they can't be used and clog up the cracks for other placements.

I sell sets of two butter knives for $25, including shipping. The chisels cost me $5 each and shipping is usually around $5. I'm doing this more as a service than a way to make money.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Big Wall and Aid Climbing
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