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> 3. Piedmont Region
> Moore's Wall
> Moore's Wall (R…
> Little Amphitheater
Blueberries
5.8 YDS 5b French 16 Ewbanks VI- UIAA 15 ZA HVS 4c British
Avg: 1.8 from 4
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Routes in Little Amphitheater
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Blueberries T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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My Wife's Pajamas T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Popeye Effect, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Suspiciously Delicious T,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
Order Wrong?
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| Type: | Trad, 80 ft (24 m) |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 1,120 total · 9/month |
| Shared By: | Matt Westlake on Sep 28, 2013 |
| Admins: | Steve Lineberry, Aaron Parlier |
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Description
If you've hiked the trail from the Amphitheater and Sentinel area you've passed this route a million times and maybe wondered about it in passing. This is an obscure route with nothing but a name and number in the Kelly guide and seems a bit of a sandbag at the listed 5.7, assuming I climbed the right thing. Getting started was the hardest part by far and maybe using a pad would make protecting the start easier. Setting the pro for the opening moves was pumpy, although I could have just been making it harder than it needed to be.
It follows a crack that starts about 8 feet off the ground until it peters out and deposits you on a face. Meander up the path of least resistance and most gear, trending right (although if you go too far you'll end up on the 4th class top section of Popeye Effect). Although the opening moves are the hardest part there are still several engaging moments moving up the face, in part due to navigating the lichen, finding pro, and checking for loose rock. Eventually you end up on a decent belay ledge with a couple of small trees. Wear long sleeves or bring garden shears to tame to bramble near the trees.
You can continue up through the next short (10'?) face to a large tree to anchor and rappel from although rope drag may kill you.
It follows a crack that starts about 8 feet off the ground until it peters out and deposits you on a face. Meander up the path of least resistance and most gear, trending right (although if you go too far you'll end up on the 4th class top section of Popeye Effect). Although the opening moves are the hardest part there are still several engaging moments moving up the face, in part due to navigating the lichen, finding pro, and checking for loose rock. Eventually you end up on a decent belay ledge with a couple of small trees. Wear long sleeves or bring garden shears to tame to bramble near the trees.
You can continue up through the next short (10'?) face to a large tree to anchor and rappel from although rope drag may kill you.
Location
So I suppose this isn't precisely IN the little amphitheater, it climbs the face between Shit Hook and Popeye Effect.
Descent:
I built a belay using the small trees then did a roped scramble right and up over the next small face (10 feet?) to a decent sized tree. Previously this had a rap station but the slings were cut away as of this writing and I didn't replace them. You can rap climbers right out over the face and be deposited back into the little amphitheater near the start of Popeye Effect or scramble further up and hike up and right to join up with the trail leading down from the meat puppet crag. Probably possible to bushwhack your way to some other rap station options if you know where to look...
Descent:
I built a belay using the small trees then did a roped scramble right and up over the next small face (10 feet?) to a decent sized tree. Previously this had a rap station but the slings were cut away as of this writing and I didn't replace them. You can rap climbers right out over the face and be deposited back into the little amphitheater near the start of Popeye Effect or scramble further up and hike up and right to join up with the trail leading down from the meat puppet crag. Probably possible to bushwhack your way to some other rap station options if you know where to look...
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