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Routes in Trundle Wall
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Splinted and Screwed T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Top Flite T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Whiskey Rat, The T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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| Type: | Trad, 300 ft (91 m), 3 pitches, Grade II |
| FA: | Josh Smith, Mick Schein, Ryan Hess Summer 2006 |
| Page Views: | 1,953 total · 11/month |
| Shared By: | Mick S on Oct 30, 2009 |
| Admins: | Jason Halladay, Mike Hoskins, Anna Brown |
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Description
A stout route that overhangs for all three pitches, with interesting and varied climbing. It still needs a bit of cleaning (lichen mostly), but the rock quality is generally excellent. The route follows the prominent right-facing dihedral in the center of the wall. Named for the Top Flite golf balls found at the base.
1. Physical and demanding, with just enough spice to keep the leader engaged. Power up the clean, strenuous dihedral past a fixed pin and a bolt, then surmount a small roof (crux). Clip a bolt, stem to the arete (5.11d), then step right and lieback to a spacious ledge.
2. Jam the splitter finger crack (5.11a) on the left side of the NE wall, step right where it ends, clip a fixed pin and crimp to a rest behind a large block. Follow cracks up and right (5.10c) to another great ledge.
3. Extra half-inch to one inch cams are helpful on this pitch. Lieback and jam a corner to a small ledge, work right, then hand traverse left to a crucial half-inch cam placement. Quality face climbing (5.11c) with finger slots for pro ends at the summit. The corner further right offers a somewhat runout 5.10 finish (not recommended).
The "Seagram's 7" block at the top of the route offers interesting bouldering opportunities, and according to legend was first climbed by the 60's generation "on a long strange trip". Check it out, the downclimb will surely get your attention. The short wall above has some old fixed pins and is an alternative to hiking up the loose gully.
1. Physical and demanding, with just enough spice to keep the leader engaged. Power up the clean, strenuous dihedral past a fixed pin and a bolt, then surmount a small roof (crux). Clip a bolt, stem to the arete (5.11d), then step right and lieback to a spacious ledge.
2. Jam the splitter finger crack (5.11a) on the left side of the NE wall, step right where it ends, clip a fixed pin and crimp to a rest behind a large block. Follow cracks up and right (5.10c) to another great ledge.
3. Extra half-inch to one inch cams are helpful on this pitch. Lieback and jam a corner to a small ledge, work right, then hand traverse left to a crucial half-inch cam placement. Quality face climbing (5.11c) with finger slots for pro ends at the summit. The corner further right offers a somewhat runout 5.10 finish (not recommended).
The "Seagram's 7" block at the top of the route offers interesting bouldering opportunities, and according to legend was first climbed by the 60's generation "on a long strange trip". Check it out, the downclimb will surely get your attention. The short wall above has some old fixed pins and is an alternative to hiking up the loose gully.
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