Type: Trad, 260 ft (79 m), 3 pitches, Grade III
FA: Stephen Angelini, Mack Johnson, August 1989
Page Views: 5,009 total · 25/month
Shared By: Ben Kiessel on Nov 9, 2007
Admins: Jesse Zacher, Bradley Mark Edwards, Nick Reecy, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

You & This Route


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Description Suggest change

P1. Start up the giant dihedral on the left side of the catcher's mitt. Climb a super fun hands to wide hands to fist crack past an anchor to a second anchor. When I climbed this, the anchor on top of pitch one was less than inspiring, but can be backed up with gear. (5.10, 130') Per Alex Garhart: it is now two bolts and a drilled angle.

This is the end of the route Dewar Dihedral but we continued to the summit via 'As Above So Below'.

P2. Traverse straight right off the belay past a thin crack, continue up and right over manky rock to a offwidth crack and join up with 'As Above So Below.' Climb the 5.9 ow to a large ledge and anchors (5.9, 60').

P3. Face climb a bolted arete to the bird crap covered summit (5.10+, 70').

Descent - rappel from the summit to the top of pitch 2. Then rappel off the back side of the tower to the ground.

The F.A. of 'As Above So Below' was done by - KC Baum, Andrea Heath, Peter Hollis, and Chris Monz in April 1989.

Location Suggest change

Monolith Spire is above the trail as you hike in from Lower Monument Canyon Trailhead. If you need more directions checkout Eric's 'Desert Rock III.'

Protection Suggest change

No small stuff necessary, doubles of everything from #0.5 to 4 Camalot, triples of #3 & 3.5 Camalots. One wide piece for pitch 2. Cord to replace anchors. Double ropes to rappel.

Photos

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