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Planning trip to Moab Area, what are we getting ourselves into?

Original Post
Flava Flav · · Seattle, WA · Joined Jun 2013 · Points: 1,577

Hello people of the desert!

My climbing partner and I are interested in taking a trip to the Moab area from Boulder for a week in early October to see what it's like to climb some sandstone cracks and chimneys. However, we aren't quite sure what to expect. I have scoured the interwebs, and read through all 20 pages of forums for Moab area, and have a vague idea of what we need. but I figured it couldn't hurt to ask some specific questions.

Any help is much appreciated.

My climbing partner leads trad solidly at 5.9 at Eldorado Canyon, and 5.8 in alpine. I just started leading, but follow solid at 5.8 in alpine, starting to get the hang of 5.9's following. Does any of this translate into desert climbing, or do we need to take "101: Desert Sandstone" before venturing into the unknown?

Upon looking at routes and areas, most of it is 5.10 and up, but it seems there are a fair amount of moderate routes that on paper we could climb. Our plan is to start the week off in the 5.6-5.8 range, ramp up to 5.9 and perhaps attempt the North Chimney or Kor-Ingals Route if the week goes smoothly. Sound reasonable?

Found this site, seems like a solid starting place. mountainproject.com/v/diffi…

As it would seem, racks are a big deal in the desert, so here is our combined rack:

C4's
2x .5-2
3x3
1x4
One set MC's 0-4
Aliens Black-Grey
2 sets BD stoppers
Set BD Hexentrics 2-9
DMM wallnuts 1-6
Tricams
1 black
2 pink
2 red
1 brown
RP's 2-4
HB brass offsets 3-5
Mammut Infinity 9.5 60m
Mammut Serenity 8.9 70m

Various slings and biners to accommodate said gear.

My guess is buy the C4 4-6 AT LEAST before the trip, but any other suggestions would be really helpful. I'm sure we'll be laden with new gear and almost completely broke when we get there, as it seems this happens before every large outing.

Also it seems some of the moderate routes have some aid on them, which interests me. Are there any short routes for practicing basic aiding techniques? Like the "Bunny Slope Bolt Ladder Yer Not Gunna Die" aid wall? Seems like a good thing to learn how to do if climbing in the desert. I don't think I'd be interested in climbing a serious aid route, with the possibility of maiming a route with misplaced hammering. Some short, clean aiding might be just enough fun to start on.

We are eager to learn and push ourselves. If anyone would like some beers, Cokes, or a cheeseburger and fries to show us the ropes on some sandstone/aid route, we would be more than happy to oblige.

Happy climbing,

Kyle Willis
Boulder, Colorado

"...a man is never more a man than when he is striving for what is beyond his grasp."

A. Roberts · · Boulder, CO · Joined Jan 2007 · Points: 1,120

If your partner can lead 5.9 in Eldo, you will be fine doing the same in Moab. I would spend a day climbing at Wall Street, or Ice Cream Parlor, to get acclimated to the Sandstone. And then do either the North Chimney (easier), or Kor Ingalls (a little harder)on Castleton, as the perfect 1st tower. Your rack is the bare minimum and will get you up plenty, but you could use triples in the .5 to #2 BD's, you can't rely on getting as many nut placements in the desert as you can in Boulder. Have Fun.

Petsfed 00 · · Snohomish, WA · Joined Mar 2002 · Points: 989

1. Go to the Ice Cream Parlor, up Kane Springs Canyon. Its as safe an intro to sandstone climbing as you'll get in the Moab area.

2. I'd invest in more cams in the sizes you're comfortable with, first. Climb the sizes you *want* to climb before you commit financially to sizes that you really don't want to climb.

3. Good first tower routes include Kor-Ingalls (be prepared to layback the 3rd pitch), Owl Rock, and (of course) Ancient Art via the Stolen Chimney. The third is probably the best intro to bolt ladders, which should be the extent of the aid climbing you should attempt on your very first desert trip.

4. If you feel like you have the rack, head down to Indian Creek, but be prepared to be spanked. While it is the case that no single move on Unnamed 5.9 at Blue Gramma Cliff is any harder than 5.7, there are none easier either, and if you can't rest in the middle of that 5.7 move, you're not going to do well.

5. If your crack climbing skills are not dialed at the grade, be prepared to get spanked. If your partner has done well on gear-protected, 5.9 face climbs in Eldo, this trip will be a rude awakening. As I said, go to the Ice Cream Parlor. The 5.8s there are awesome, and good sustained crack climbs to boot.

Jim Amidon · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2001 · Points: 850

Hate to be that guy

But ur gonna die

Andrew Gram · · Salt Lake City, UT · Joined Jan 2001 · Points: 3,725

A few other easy towers:

South Face of the South Sixshooter at Indian Creek.
West Face on Dark Angel in Arches. No climbing harder than 5.9 if you french free the second pitch bolt ladder.
Standard Route on the Pickle in Arches is a good intro to aid climbing.
Bandito Route on Mexican Hat is a bit of a drive from Moab, but it is a neat feature and a good easy aid climb.

Andrew Mayer · · Driggs, ID · Joined Nov 2010 · Points: 131

Have the two of you decided what you want the focus of the trip to be? (i.e. desert towers, aid, simply just desert sandstone climbing, etc)

Consider spending some time at the creek, but as others have said, be prepared to be spanked if your crack skills aren't great. Also plan to make friends there to combine racks.

Otto's Route in CO Natl Monument was my first desert tower and is pretty mellow and has only 2 real trad pitches as I remember (and 2 piton-protected sport/face pitches)

Owl Rock in Arches was another of my first towers. mellow, a single pitch and very "sporty" climbing

If I were you, I wouldn't buy anything new unless you truly foresee yourself using it beyond just this trip. Perhaps borrow some gear from another friend for the trip? AFTER the trip, you may be inspired to work towards triples .5-2 and some wide gear but I would say wait and see. (although I would HIGHLY recommend a #5 cam for the 2nd pitch of the north chimney on castleton if you decide to do that and double #4 for Kor-Ingalls)

Very random/jumbled advice but I hope it helps.

slim · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2004 · Points: 1,103

i think the best first desert tower is south sixshooter (as andrew gram linked above). the rock is good, the route is fun, the views are excellent.

kor ingals or north chimney on castleton are likely to be a quantum leap. there is a lot more loose rock, the climbing is a lot harder, etc. a really key question - your friend - is he ultra solid on 5.9 at eldo? if so you will probably be ok. if he is 50/50 on 5.9 at eldo and hasn't done much crack climbing and/or wide crack climbing, i think castleton could be rough.

if you are doing a 3 day trip, here is what i would probably recommend.

1) potash road (30 seconds over potash, seibernetics, flakes of wrath, bad moki, etc) OR, ice cream parlor like brian suggested.

2) south six shooter.

3) owl rock at arches, and if you have extra time the west face of bullwinkle tower, or maybe the pickle on the drive out.

i think this would be the funnest line up, and it would give you a good overall flavor of desert climbing.

ddriver · · SLC · Joined Jul 2007 · Points: 2,084

pull down, not out

;)

Hank Caylor · · Livin' in the Junk! · Joined Dec 2003 · Points: 643

The Blue Pig BBQ joint at the South end of town is boss! See you this weekend.

ben jammin · · Moab, UT · Joined Jul 2008 · Points: 852

Dude.. For sure do The Pickle.

Hank, see ya jumping out at Day Canyon?

BackAtItAgain · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2011 · Points: 15

IMO - first pitch of the North Chimmneys is on par with 10- at Indian Creek, very long, crux at top, takes tons of gear to protect well. A #5 camelot will be your friend on the 2nd pitch - you'll be gripped without it... just my two cents.

have fun! few good easy IC routes... Twin Cracks, Binnous Crack, Chocolate Corner to name a few.

joshf · · missoula, mt · Joined Oct 2007 · Points: 790

I would skip buying the C4 4-6 unless you want to climb something specific that requires several large cam placements. It seems like you have a pretty diverse rack...the only issue you might have is at Indian Creek if you want to get on something big/small. Think about what kind of cracks you want to climb and buy/borrow an extra piece or two. Also, perfectly parallel sandstone cracks are awesome for hex placements if you don't want to drop alot of money...

that being said, my personal IC rack would be:

5X1 inch
8X2 inch
5X3 inch

But I can't climb anything but hand cracks.

Hank Caylor · · Livin' in the Junk! · Joined Dec 2003 · Points: 643
MIYG wrote:Hank, see ya jumping out at Day Canyon?
That little area has it all right?! Love it!
vimeo.com/50499157
Brian C. · · Longmont, CO · Joined Feb 2010 · Points: 1,100

I'm a horrible climber and have still managed to have a ball climbing around Moab. (That said I'm not trying to crush stuff at Indian Creek.)

Happen to know anything about aid? That will really open some doors for you on tower routes.

Otto's Route on Independence is a really cool route and as easy as it gets in the desert. Can be done with a single set of C4s from 0.5-4 and some draws.

Have fun, the desert kicks ass!

Here is some good ol' fashioned desert 5.7. Who says there aren't moderates out there???

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Southern Utah Deserts
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