Highway 61 Revisited
5.11- YDS 6c French 22 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 22 ZA E3 5c British
Avg: 2.7 from 20 votes
Type: | Trad, 1600 ft (485 m), 11 pitches, Grade IV |
FA: | Ed Webster & Bryan Becker, 1979 |
Page Views: | 5,128 total · 33/month |
Shared By: | e Dixon on May 17, 2011 |
Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures
Details
Description
This is a really good route that needs to get done more. The climbing is fun and will clean up nicely with more traffic.
P1: Start in a short, left-facing corner that turns into a more straight-in crack. Climb this, then move right into another crack leading up to and through a roof with a nice hand crack. Continue up the hand crack to a nice ledge and belay (~130', 5.10).
P2: Move up and right past a short, right-arching crack, then wander up and right on loose and junky rock to a small stance/ledge and belay (~200', 5.7).
P3: Weave your way left on black rock to the base of an obvious, left-facing corner and belay (~50', 5.9).
P4: This is the 1st Ear pitch. Climb the nice, left-facing corner (fingers/hands) to below the ear. Undercling/layback left around the ear, continue a little right and belay at a ledge (~130', 5.10).
P5: The 2nd Ear. This pitch does have some bird shit on it. Move up/right into another nice, left-facing corner (fingers-cups). Climb this to below the second ear. Jam/undercling left around the ear to where the crack pinches. Make a delicate move left into another crack and continue up to a semi-hanging belay (~140', 5.10+).
From here, traverse right to a ledge atop the first pitch of Journey Home (~50', 5.7). The original finish follows Journey Home to the rim. For a more challenging day, continue up Twisted.
P1: Start in a short, left-facing corner that turns into a more straight-in crack. Climb this, then move right into another crack leading up to and through a roof with a nice hand crack. Continue up the hand crack to a nice ledge and belay (~130', 5.10).
P2: Move up and right past a short, right-arching crack, then wander up and right on loose and junky rock to a small stance/ledge and belay (~200', 5.7).
P3: Weave your way left on black rock to the base of an obvious, left-facing corner and belay (~50', 5.9).
P4: This is the 1st Ear pitch. Climb the nice, left-facing corner (fingers/hands) to below the ear. Undercling/layback left around the ear, continue a little right and belay at a ledge (~130', 5.10).
P5: The 2nd Ear. This pitch does have some bird shit on it. Move up/right into another nice, left-facing corner (fingers-cups). Climb this to below the second ear. Jam/undercling left around the ear to where the crack pinches. Make a delicate move left into another crack and continue up to a semi-hanging belay (~140', 5.10+).
From here, traverse right to a ledge atop the first pitch of Journey Home (~50', 5.7). The original finish follows Journey Home to the rim. For a more challenging day, continue up Twisted.
Location
Go down the Cruise Gully. The start is about 200' to the right of The Scenic Cruise. The short, right-facing corner and roof crack of the first pitch are easy enough to spot.
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