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Rodger Raubach > 2013 Dolomites Trip

After being away from the Dolomites for 50 years, it was a trip long overdue. At age 74 I thought it prudent to climb with a Bergfuehrer, so I contacted guidebook author Mauro Bernardi. This year I restricted myself to a difficulty of UIAA Gr. IV+, or YDS 5.6/5.7.
Me, on the first pitch of Torre Lusy. This ascent was made on the 50th Anniversary of my earlier climb of the route on 8 September 1963. This was my first introduction to climbing in the Cortina area at Cinque Torri.
Me, on the first pitch of Torre Lusy. This asce…
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First belay ledge, Torre Lusy.
First belay ledge, Torre Lusy.
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Climbing 3rd lead, Torre Lusy. This pitch is steep but endowed with very good holds keeping the difficulty at UIAA IV-, or YDS 5.4.
Climbing 3rd lead, Torre Lusy. This pitch is st…
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Still on 3rd pitch, but this one is very photogenic.
Still on 3rd pitch, but this one is very photog…
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Summit photo: Mauro Bernardi and Rodger Raubach.
Summit photo: Mauro Bernardi and Rodger Raubach.
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Rodger, getting tied in on Torre Piccola Falzarego (11 September 2013) for the via della Guida. UIAA IV+, nine leads.
Rodger, getting tied in on Torre Piccola Falzar…
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The easy but exposed traverse on pitch 2 of via della Guida.
The easy but exposed traverse on pitch 2 of via…
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Got the traverse nailed!
Got the traverse nailed!
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Chimney/dihedral on pitch 4. Pretty easy but interesting climbing at UIAA IV-, or YDS 5.4.
Chimney/dihedral on pitch 4. Pretty easy but in…
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Continuing up this corner system on pitch 4. Some fun stemming/bridging for a few moves...
Continuing up this corner system on pitch 4. So…
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Pitch 5, shortly after the crux moves at UIAA IV+, which seemed more like YDS 5.7 than 5.6. This was THE lead of the entire climb for pure pleasure on an enormous 70 degree slab at 5.4/5.5 climbing for 120 feet.
Pitch 5, shortly after the crux moves at UIAA I…
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Exposed and marvelous fun!
Exposed and marvelous fun!
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Remains of First World War Lazarett lie immediately below this route. Lazarett = Military Hospital.
Remains of First World War Lazarett lie immedia…
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Moving over to the final edge or Arete which leads to the summit.
Moving over to the final edge or Arete which le…
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Finally getting somewhere!
Finally getting somewhere!
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The mandatory "summit shot."
The mandatory "summit shot."
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Mauro Bernardi, and a Swiss party share the summit.
Mauro Bernardi, and a Swiss party share the sum…
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At the summit spire!
At the summit spire!
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Ready to trudge back to the car, find a restaurant, and a cold drink! Falzarego Towers directly overhead!
Ready to trudge back to the car, find a restaur…
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Climbing Torre Quarta Bassa, Regular Route. (16 September 2013).
Climbing Torre Quarta Bassa, Regular Route. (16…
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The first pitch of this climb is pretty well polished from lots of traffic. UIAA III+, or YDS 5.3. It sure felt harder than "5.3!"
The first pitch of this climb is pretty well po…
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At 1st belay ledge under the roof.
At 1st belay ledge under the roof.
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Torre Quarta Alta (left-rectangular formation), and Torre Quarta Bassa (right-pyramidal formation).
Torre Quarta Alta (left-rectangular formation),…
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Torre Quarta Bassa, Via Normale, with approximate line of the route in red.
Torre Quarta Bassa, Via Normale, with approxim…
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Tied-off Sanduhr for natural protection.
Tied-off Sanduhr for natural protection.
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