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Your first multi-pitch climb? What and where?

Doug S · · W Pa · Joined Apr 2012 · Points: 55

Hey StonedMaster, where you been hiding?

My first multi-pitch was Green Wall at Seneca. The step off of the belay ledge, last pitch, was the biggest thrill of my life up to that point.

First multi-pitch lead was at Harper's Ferry, Hard Up Direct. It's the one that climbs up the left side of the old painted sign above the tunnels. It actually went pretty smooth- I thought the route was more like a 5.7 and the pro was good at all the cruxes so I wasn't too sketched.

We should hit Seneca. I don't get down there enough.

John Farrell · · Phoenix, AZ · Joined Jan 2009 · Points: 85
The Stoned Master wrote:I enjoy the variety of individuals on this forum and Id like to know more about some of you (I find humans fascinating and I love the mountains/climbing!). Im also a history "buff" and like to know your experience(s). what route and where was your first multi-pitch? did you lead any? if not what was your first multi-pitch climb that you lead on (even if one pitch)? who`d you climb with? why were you there (dragged by family, club outing, because you wouldnt have been anywhere else in the world at that moment, etc)? Mine was a 2 pitch (can be done in one easily BUT it is a guidebook 2 pitcher) 5.3 named Witches Brew at Chickies Rock, Lancaster, PA. My second puked for +/-15 minutes at belay because he was terribly hung over. Good times. Thanks all.
My very first multi-pitch experience was when I hired a guide for Ancient Art. That got me hooked on trad and multi-pitch climbing.

mountainproject.com/v/ancie…

My first multi-pitch that I shared leads was Hanging Gardens in the McDowell Mountains.

mountainproject.com/v/hangi…

My first multi-pitch that I led the entire thing, took my first trad fall, and received my first climbing scar (slab fall, cheese graded my ankle bone) was Moby Dick in the Cochise Stronghold.

mountainproject.com/v/moby-…
Ryan Kempf · · Boulder, CO · Joined Jul 2011 · Points: 371

1st multi was "Sahara Terror" @ Tahquitz Rock with Mr. Norman Bradley. Norm realized my level of enthusiasm for multi-pitch climbing and became my trad mentor. I owe that man a lot. He kept me alive, and taught me how to keep myself alive.

The climb itself was fairly uneventful (as your 1st multi-pitch should be), but the adventure, stories and beers shared that day created a lifelong friendship.

Fuck yeah rock climbing!

H BL · · Colorado · Joined Feb 2006 · Points: 95

Whitney-Gilman on Cannon in NH back in 1993. I'll never forget it as I learned a valuable lesson that day and have never made the mistake since.

TDoyle · · Milford, MA · Joined Mar 2012 · Points: 140

First lead and first multi-pitch was Clip A Dee Doo Da (5.3) at Rumney.

Matty1985 · · Philadelphia · Joined Aug 2012 · Points: 75

My first multipitch was also witches brew! I think it was 28 degrees and overcast with freezing wind off the susquehanna. When we reached shelter in the chimney it was like checking into a four star hotel. Making the move to escape to the face and i forgot about how damn cold i was! Still love that climb!

Creed Archibald · · Salt Lake City, UT · Joined Apr 2012 · Points: 1,016

First multi pitch was Rewritten (5.7) in Eldo. I was with an old tradster. He saved p4 for me. I was freaked out stepping off the belay ledge on that airy traverse. He convinced me to do a few moves, and if I had to, I could come back and he would lead it. I finally stepped off the ledge. By the time I got to that finger crack I was laughing and hollering. I loved it. I also placed so much gear in the first 30 ft I had to run out the last half of the pitch. Thankfully I found stuck gear at the belay or my anchor would have been really sorry!

elsbree · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2013 · Points: 0

Albatross, a 3-pitcher on Peak Head- a crazy granite dome on the southern coast of Western Australia. It was only rated a 15 (5.6?), but looking out over the ocean from a few hundred feet up and knowing that Antarctica was the next land out there was pretty eerie!

William Sonoma · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2012 · Points: 3,550

H: what lesson did you learn that day?

Matty: nice dude! you still around the area? if not where are you and you still climbing alot?

Travis Dustin · · Mexico Maine · Joined Jan 2012 · Points: 1,665

My first multi pitch experience was on whitney gilman ridge with a guide. Climbing cannon was a life long goal I needed to reach. My first multi lead was Clipadeedoodah. My first multi trad lead was on Standard route on whitehorse. I love and am totally hooked on multi pitch and am taking a bouldering buddy out on his first multi experience in a week.

Seth Derr · · harrisburg, pa · Joined Apr 2010 · Points: 2,260

First multi pitch climb was Neck Press to Front C to Traffic Jam on Seneca.

First multi pitch lead was High E. I'd heard so much about that move out from under the roof I had myself convinced it was going to be the hardest thing i'd ever done. Was pretty relieved when i got there and it was 5.6.

First time climbing/leading more than 2 pitches off the ground was Levitation 29. Still among my favorite climbing adventures ever.

I'm still waiting to learn something.

Tom-onator · · trollfreesociety · Joined Feb 2010 · Points: 790
North Ridge of Montezuma's Tower 5.7
Borrowed shoes and harness from Berkley climber Jeff Webb who led the climb.
Jeff was a wing mate at CC ('82-'83) that was always doing pull-ups off the door jambs and one arm hangs off the bathroom stall divider bars. He seemed to live and breathe training for climbing.
I was drawn to his passion for the sport and bugged him regularly to take me along.
I have no doubt he could've downclimbed the entire route if I had a problem seconding as this was my first ever climb and rappel.
I was bitten hard by the climbing bug then and am grateful for his mentoring.
William Sonoma · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2012 · Points: 3,550

travis what route you taking your friend up to pop his multipitch cherry?

seth thats a sweet link up. neck presses first pitch is one of my favorites at seneca. thin gear, a few technical moves, a few jams/locks, its a beautiful pitch.

dude a gunks 5.6 as your first multipitch lead is solid. when we freeing that multipitch aid line at the narrows?

tom where do you frequent now for multipitch? where do you prefer? still climb with webb?

Jon Zucco · · Denver, CO · Joined Aug 2008 · Points: 245
The Stoned Master wrote:Jon you climbing alot of multipitch now a days? if so where do you frequent or prefer?
Mostly cragging/clipping bolts these days. When I do get on gear multis it's usually at eldo. CCC and BoCan have some interesting and fun sport multipitch that I've been looking into lately too. It is pretty fun to project something near the edge of your ability on bolts while also getting to experience at least somewhat gnarly exposure.

I'm afraid I might be too much of a wimp for the Diamond, especially after reading so many accident reports this season. But I'd like to eventually get out to yosemite and do some bigger stuff and definitely next time I hit Red Rock Canyon, I am bringing my trad rack along.
William Sonoma · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2012 · Points: 3,550

there have been alot of accidents this season all around. if you get out to the diamond or red rocks let us know, id like to hear about it.

i wonder what effects warmer seasons (possibly colder in some places at some times) will have on the rock? specifically regarding freeze/thaw and the lack of it at some places.

maybe some of the stone will last longer for us and future climbers to enjoy (ok and the wildlife that makes it a home)? due to less freeze/thaw cycles? maybe itll all remain the same? Interesting to watch.

Brian Croce · · san diego, CA · Joined Aug 2011 · Points: 60

High Exposure.

Sarah K · · Boulder, CO · Joined May 2009 · Points: 80

Durrance on Devil's Tower. My boyfriend Sean and I spent the whole summer learning to trad climb at our local (1-pitch) crags near Minneapolis. Devil's Tower was our big goal to shoot for, and we had a trip planned with the MN Rovers to go out there and the Needles. We swapped leads and got to the Meadows as the sun was heading down. We were pretty slow but it was a great experience!

William Sonoma · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2012 · Points: 3,550

high exposure, super classic. did you lead any? whatd you think of "the move" as a rookie?

I wonder if one day there wont be an average of 77 teams waiting to climb high exposure on an average nice weather weekend? how long will it be considered a uber classic.

2 weekends ago we ran into some dudes from brazil who came to the Gunks JUST for high exposure. thats cool and crazy, all that travel for the primary climb being a 3 pitch 5.6 (usually done in 2 pitches).

William Sonoma · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2012 · Points: 3,550

sarah you still climbing? any multipitch around you at all? if not where do you go? prefer?

Bootz Ylectric · · Las Vegas, NV · Joined Apr 2012 · Points: 165

My first multi-pitch was also my first Trad follow, which also led to climbing regularly with my current partner. He took me up the 3 pitch Jungle Gym in Devil's lake. That was later my first multi-pitch lead as well and is still one of my favorite lakes to bring newbies up at the lake. It's just a fun easy to protect route.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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