Your first multi-pitch climb? What and where?
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Hey StonedMaster, where you been hiding? |
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The Stoned Master wrote:I enjoy the variety of individuals on this forum and Id like to know more about some of you (I find humans fascinating and I love the mountains/climbing!). Im also a history "buff" and like to know your experience(s). what route and where was your first multi-pitch? did you lead any? if not what was your first multi-pitch climb that you lead on (even if one pitch)? who`d you climb with? why were you there (dragged by family, club outing, because you wouldnt have been anywhere else in the world at that moment, etc)? Mine was a 2 pitch (can be done in one easily BUT it is a guidebook 2 pitcher) 5.3 named Witches Brew at Chickies Rock, Lancaster, PA. My second puked for +/-15 minutes at belay because he was terribly hung over. Good times. Thanks all.My very first multi-pitch experience was when I hired a guide for Ancient Art. That got me hooked on trad and multi-pitch climbing. mountainproject.com/v/ancie… My first multi-pitch that I shared leads was Hanging Gardens in the McDowell Mountains. mountainproject.com/v/hangi… My first multi-pitch that I led the entire thing, took my first trad fall, and received my first climbing scar (slab fall, cheese graded my ankle bone) was Moby Dick in the Cochise Stronghold. mountainproject.com/v/moby-… |
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1st multi was "Sahara Terror" @ Tahquitz Rock with Mr. Norman Bradley. Norm realized my level of enthusiasm for multi-pitch climbing and became my trad mentor. I owe that man a lot. He kept me alive, and taught me how to keep myself alive. |
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Whitney-Gilman on Cannon in NH back in 1993. I'll never forget it as I learned a valuable lesson that day and have never made the mistake since. |
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First lead and first multi-pitch was Clip A Dee Doo Da (5.3) at Rumney. |
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My first multipitch was also witches brew! I think it was 28 degrees and overcast with freezing wind off the susquehanna. When we reached shelter in the chimney it was like checking into a four star hotel. Making the move to escape to the face and i forgot about how damn cold i was! Still love that climb! |
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First multi pitch was Rewritten (5.7) in Eldo. I was with an old tradster. He saved p4 for me. I was freaked out stepping off the belay ledge on that airy traverse. He convinced me to do a few moves, and if I had to, I could come back and he would lead it. I finally stepped off the ledge. By the time I got to that finger crack I was laughing and hollering. I loved it. I also placed so much gear in the first 30 ft I had to run out the last half of the pitch. Thankfully I found stuck gear at the belay or my anchor would have been really sorry! |
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Albatross, a 3-pitcher on Peak Head- a crazy granite dome on the southern coast of Western Australia. It was only rated a 15 (5.6?), but looking out over the ocean from a few hundred feet up and knowing that Antarctica was the next land out there was pretty eerie! |
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H: what lesson did you learn that day? |
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My first multi pitch experience was on whitney gilman ridge with a guide. Climbing cannon was a life long goal I needed to reach. My first multi lead was Clipadeedoodah. My first multi trad lead was on Standard route on whitehorse. I love and am totally hooked on multi pitch and am taking a bouldering buddy out on his first multi experience in a week. |
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First multi pitch climb was Neck Press to Front C to Traffic Jam on Seneca. |
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North Ridge of Montezuma's Tower 5.7
Borrowed shoes and harness from Berkley climber Jeff Webb who led the climb. Jeff was a wing mate at CC ('82-'83) that was always doing pull-ups off the door jambs and one arm hangs off the bathroom stall divider bars. He seemed to live and breathe training for climbing. I was drawn to his passion for the sport and bugged him regularly to take me along. I have no doubt he could've downclimbed the entire route if I had a problem seconding as this was my first ever climb and rappel. I was bitten hard by the climbing bug then and am grateful for his mentoring. |
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travis what route you taking your friend up to pop his multipitch cherry? |
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The Stoned Master wrote:Jon you climbing alot of multipitch now a days? if so where do you frequent or prefer?Mostly cragging/clipping bolts these days. When I do get on gear multis it's usually at eldo. CCC and BoCan have some interesting and fun sport multipitch that I've been looking into lately too. It is pretty fun to project something near the edge of your ability on bolts while also getting to experience at least somewhat gnarly exposure. I'm afraid I might be too much of a wimp for the Diamond, especially after reading so many accident reports this season. But I'd like to eventually get out to yosemite and do some bigger stuff and definitely next time I hit Red Rock Canyon, I am bringing my trad rack along. |
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there have been alot of accidents this season all around. if you get out to the diamond or red rocks let us know, id like to hear about it. |
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High Exposure. |
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Durrance on Devil's Tower. My boyfriend Sean and I spent the whole summer learning to trad climb at our local (1-pitch) crags near Minneapolis. Devil's Tower was our big goal to shoot for, and we had a trip planned with the MN Rovers to go out there and the Needles. We swapped leads and got to the Meadows as the sun was heading down. We were pretty slow but it was a great experience! |
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high exposure, super classic. did you lead any? whatd you think of "the move" as a rookie? |
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sarah you still climbing? any multipitch around you at all? if not where do you go? prefer? |
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My first multi-pitch was also my first Trad follow, which also led to climbing regularly with my current partner. He took me up the 3 pitch Jungle Gym in Devil's lake. That was later my first multi-pitch lead as well and is still one of my favorite lakes to bring newbies up at the lake. It's just a fun easy to protect route. |