Mountain Project Logo

Totem cams

Lewis Loader · · Calgary, AB · Joined Feb 2012 · Points: 47

I love my Totems. They feel super solid in weird, and unlikely placements. The durability is definitly there, which was one of the biggest concerns when they were introduced. The range is sweet, and very similar to a C4, same goes for weight. Although they may feel bulky at first, you will get over it. Also, the 'floppiness' hasn't been an issue. If you're thinking of buying them, stop hesitating, and just do it.

patto · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2012 · Points: 25

As a maths/physics/engineering geek, what I find great about Totem discussion is the advantages they have theoretically are significant and important enough that they are observed anecdotally. What I am referring to here is the holding power and flared crack performance.

In contrast most anecdotal reports don't seem to recognises that in terms of holding power of cams Metolius>>WC&DMM>>BD. This is probably because the differences are more slight thus people are more likely not to notice them an instead.

Aliens have significantly less "holding power" on paper. But they have improved flared crack and course rock performance which in many circumstances more than makes up for their reduced force on the rock.

Rob WardenSpaceLizard · · las Vegans, the cosmic void · Joined Dec 2011 · Points: 130

could you elaborate on the lower holding power of aliens? this is the first I am hearing about it and it peaks my curiosity. additionally whats the math for Flared cracks with aliens. my anecdotal evidence is the rock will fail long before the alien pulls out of just about any placement... if the braze holds that is.

thanks in advance

patto · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2012 · Points: 25
Rob Warden, Space Lizard wrote:my anecdotal evidence is the rock will fail long before the alien pulls out of just about any placement... if the braze holds that is. thanks in advance
A good cam, in a good placement, in good rock should never pull out before mechanical failure of the cam above the rated strength. Though if you climb on poor rock then rock failure may limit the placements.

If the rock is hard and smooth though then cams with lower holding power may slide out whereas those with higher holding power will not.

Rob Warden, Space Lizard wrote:could you elaborate on the lower holding power of aliens? this is the first I am hearing about it and it peaks my curiosity. additionally whats the math for Flared cracks with aliens.
There is plenty of good information on how cams operate. Familiarising yourself with this is a good start.
web.mit.edu/custer/www/rock…
indiana.edu/~iubphys/underg…

Simply put a range vs holding power in parallel cracks is a trade off that is dependent on the cam angle chosen. Higher cam angles mean more range but less 'holding power'. Metolius used a cam angle of 13.25, WC,DMM have a cam angle of 13.75, BD of 15, Aliens use 16.

However flared cracks change things as they effectively reduce the cam angle. For this reasons Aliens can have an advantage in flares. Aliens also have softer metal which likely improves things in course rocks, however this is somewhat contentious. These two reasons go a long way in explaining why aliens perform so well on certain rock. Certainly I wouldn't touch aliens for the rock I climb because the rock is too hard and smooth.

The mathematics of totems is FAR more complex. Their design has managed to achieve the range and flared crack performance of a high cam angle (Their camming angle is ~20 degrees) while maintaining a very high holding power (~13 degrees).
Chris Vinson · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2012 · Points: 75

I just love this video, totem cams might very well be the most innovative cams available on the market today.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-TeTejh1ebs

Totem cams!

Allen Corneau · · Houston, TX · Joined May 2008 · Points: 80
Smarty Ports/Shants wrote:Does Climbtech own/operate rapbolting.com?
Don't think so...

RapBolting.com is in Silt, CO; ClimbTech is in Austin, TX.
patto · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2012 · Points: 25

Great video.

Though I do find it odd that he states that the 2 nuts are the only safe gear up to that point! Some of those cams he placed, particularly the small blue totem are totally bomber! In fact they FAR better than the nuts. Sure those nuts aren't going to come out unless the rock breaks, but breaking that rock in that position is entirely possible! (It seems that the constriction is just at the face) And lets not forget the dodgy thread which is probably the WEAKEST placement in the climb!

I guess some people no matter how hard they climb, still don't quite trust cams. In fact now that I look at it some longer slings might help too!

That said maybe I'm just being pick cause I'm jealous! If I climbed as well as him I wouldn't need protection on the stuff I climb!

Brandon Gottung · · CO Western Slope · Joined Dec 2010 · Points: 1,613

As if any more praise need be said, I climbed on Totems a bunch in LiMing China and loved them. Rumor is that Kailash bought out Totem, so there were a couple racks of Totems floating around (as well as some of those X4s which are nice from .1-.4, .5 and .75 are floppy like big mastercams). I had no issues plugging Totems in on pumpy finger cracks, regardless of their hyper-flexibility. As for there bulk, it's a non issue if climbing with doubles or less. I'd grab a couple, but at this point, I really don't need more cams. The technology behind these cams is amazing and reason enough to warrant purchase.

Khoi · · Vancouver, BC · Joined Oct 2009 · Points: 45
Brandon Gottung wrote:As if any more praise need be said, I climbed on Totems a bunch in LiMing China and loved them. Rumor is that Kailash bought out Totem, so there were a couple racks of Totems floating around (as well as some of those X4s which are nice from .1-.4, .5 and .75 are floppy like big mastercams). I had no issues plugging Totems in on pumpy finger cracks, regardless of their hyper-flexibility. As for there bulk, it's a non issue if climbing with doubles or less. I'd grab a couple, but at this point, I ready don't need more cams. The technology behind these cams is amazing and reason enough to warrant purchase.
Kailash who????
Brandon Gottung · · CO Western Slope · Joined Dec 2010 · Points: 1,613

I guess its Kailas, without the h.

kailas.com.cn/en/default.html

They make ice axes, biners and draws that are all mirrored on other companies' designs. Their cams don't inspire the most confidence, at least not the number 5 when climbing well past it on insecure offwidths.

I don't know the truth behind the rumor but various folks mentioned it and the totems had the Kailas sun logo on 'em.

Plaid Peterson · · Culver Oregon · Joined Jan 2005 · Points: 120

Hey someone asked if Totem was coming out with smaller sizes. The answer is yes. One size smaller in the Totem which will be smaller than the blue 0.65. Which is about .3 Camalot and green Alien size.

They are also doing a blue Basic Cam and a Blue/Green offset which they call a Hybrid.

Sometime in 2013. No solid release date yet.

Plaid

Superclimber · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2009 · Points: 1,310
Plaidman wrote: They are also doing a blue Basic Cam and a Blue/Green offset which they call a Hybrid. Sometime in 2013. No solid release date yet. Plaid
Really!? Yay!!!
GhaMby Eagan · · Heaven · Joined Oct 2006 · Points: 385

I purchased the Yellow/Green Hybrid Basic this last weekend and recieved it in the mail last night (thursday). I'm really impressed with the look and feel of it. Comparing it to my Metolius offsets it is between the Blue/yellow and yellow/orange. It is a couple inches longer than my metolius cams, and has a very nice-even feel. The head-width is very close to Metolius, but the cam-lobes are a few milimeters wider which means more surface area. I would like to get a few more, and a few of the Fixe aliens for a true comparison, but it may be a while till I can afford that.

rgold · · Poughkeepsie, NY · Joined Feb 2008 · Points: 526

Put down Andy Kirkpatrick as another convert:

andy-kirkpatrick.com/blog/v…

Mark Hudon · · Lives on the road · Joined Jul 2009 · Points: 420

They were the go-to cam for Max Jones and I on Lost in America and then again with Cheyne Lempe and I on Native Son this last fall.

Holyshootdude · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2012 · Points: 15

I love the totems.. Bought a set half price.. Bran new at the sport recycler in boulder.. So far a month into it .. Used them in eldo, lumpy.. Tricky placement places... Revolutionary... And used them on lurky fear... Fell on a red one and the rock blew ..and the back lobes held .. Only small thing ... Being so flexible .. And usually I place the in the holy shoot moment .. They can be hard to remove... I'm already lookin to get another set 1/2 price of course .. Another thing.. The metal seems soft .. Maybe there design for limestone?

Holyshootdude · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2012 · Points: 15

I love the totems.. Bought a set half price.. Bran new at the sport recycler in boulder.. So far a month into it .. Used them in eldo, lumpy.. Tricky placement places... Revolutionary... And used them on lurky fear... Fell on a red one and the rock blew ..and the back lobes held .. Only small thing ... Being so flexible .. And usually I place the in the holy shoot moment .. They can be hard to remove... I'm already lookin to get another set 1/2 price of course .. Another thing.. The metal seems soft .. Maybe there design for limestone?

Holyshootdude · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2012 · Points: 15

I love the totems.. Bought a set half price.. Bran new at the sport recycler in boulder.. So far a month into it .. Used them in eldo, lumpy.. Tricky placement places... Revolutionary... And used them on lurky fear... Fell on a red one and the rock blew ..and the back lobes held .. Only small thing ... Being so flexible .. And usually I place the in the holy shoot moment .. They can be hard to remove... I'm already lookin to get another set 1/2 price of course .. Another thing.. The metal seems soft .. Maybe there design for limestone?

TacoDelRio · · All up in yo bidniss. · Joined Feb 2010 · Points: 2,356

Parker lent me a few to try out. I will be getting a tattoo of one on my face soon. They're good.

mapeze · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2010 · Points: 10

About Totem ownership rumor:
Totem manufactures in Basque Country cams under his brand (Totem) and also for another brands, all brands with the same production line and quality system.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Climbing Gear Discussion
Post a Reply to "Totem cams"

Log In to Reply

Join the Community

Create your FREE account today!
Already have an account? Login to close this notice.

Get Started.