The Voodoo That You Do
5.7+ YDS 5a French 15 Ewbanks V+ UIAA 13 ZA MVS 4b British
Avg: 2.5 from 19 votes
Type: | Trad, 115 ft (35 m) |
FA: | Mike Sheridan, Dave Montgomery 2012 |
Page Views: | 4,108 total · 31/month |
Shared By: | Leo Paik on May 21, 2013 |
Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Access Issue: Falcon Closures
Details
Seasonal Falcon Closures in effect from March 15 - July 31.
- Lion's Head
- Roughneck Area
- Wildcatter Wall
Note that the annual closures of the Park View Dome, The Ranch Hand, Black Creek Wall, and Sawmill Crag have been permanently lifted. These cliffs will continue to be monitored, but will only close if a new nest is spotted.
- Lion's Head
- Roughneck Area
- Wildcatter Wall
Note that the annual closures of the Park View Dome, The Ranch Hand, Black Creek Wall, and Sawmill Crag have been permanently lifted. These cliffs will continue to be monitored, but will only close if a new nest is spotted.
Description
This is a variation of the Cave of Eternal Stench. It goes right from the 5th bolt out to a 2nd crack to the right to avoid the harder left crack.
Start on Cave of Eternal Stench out of the cave with some chimney stems (crux). Move up onto the slab. Follow 4 more bolts. Above the 5th bolt, traverse right to a 2nd crack. Continue until it fades, then move left to clip another bolt. Finish at a 2 bolt anchor with chains.
If you lower off the anchors with your gear in place using a 70m rope, you'll definitely need to watch the rope as touching down off the slab is more than 35m.
Start on Cave of Eternal Stench out of the cave with some chimney stems (crux). Move up onto the slab. Follow 4 more bolts. Above the 5th bolt, traverse right to a 2nd crack. Continue until it fades, then move left to clip another bolt. Finish at a 2 bolt anchor with chains.
If you lower off the anchors with your gear in place using a 70m rope, you'll definitely need to watch the rope as touching down off the slab is more than 35m.
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