Looking Glass this weekend: Worth it?

I know the forecast is looking rather grim, but we were planning on checking out the North Side of LG on Saturday. There's a 40% of PM showers and I'm curious if it's worth it? Any routes that stay dry? Other recommendations?

Thanks

Give it a go. At your level, you'll definitely find something dry.
Also check out the SW Corner of Whitesides for good rainy weather climbing. You'd probably like Vaporizer there, as well as any of the routes climbing out of the corner.

There is a bunch of stuff that stays dry at the North Face. Most of the climbs between Invisible Airwaves to the Glass Menagerie will be dry to some degree. It depends on how harsh the rain is also. If it is blowing in, nothing will stay dry. If its a sprinkle everything will be dry. There is also Cathy's Creek right down the road. Almost everything there will be dry. It hasn't rained in several days, and it takes a lot of rain for that place to start seeping. There are plenty of good swimming holes locally if things get bad, or you can always head to Oskar Blues.

TomCaldwell wrote:There is a bunch of stuff that stays dry at the North Face. Most of the climbs between Invisible Airwaves to the Glass Menagerie will be dry to some degree. It depends on how harsh the rain is also. If it is blowing in, nothing will stay dry. If its a sprinkle everything will be dry. There is also Cathy's Creek right down the road. Almost everything there will be dry. It hasn't rained in several days, and it takes a lot of rain for that place to start seeping. There are plenty of good swimming holes locally if things get bad, or you can always head to Oskar Blues.

wrong wrong wrong!

One route stays dry at the north side (creatures). The other routes get wet very easily. The start to Invisible Air will be wet (unless you do the 5.12a dihedral direct start). The top of invisible airways will be wet and the crack will probably be seeping.

There is...nothing...between creatures and IA (except waste not want not 5.12c runout slab route).

Cathy's creek is pretty horrendous in a rain since shit seeps all over the place.

No offense, just curious have you actually climbed at those places after 2 days of rain (what we've got here in this area now going into the weekend) to give that recommendation?

So there are two different opinions here...which is it? I think we're gonna go regardless and just be prepared to hike around and see the area (never been before). Hopefully can get a couple of pitches in.

Thanks!

oh you should go anyways! If you havent climbed it Creatures of Waste is such a good route. Its basically a sport route on cams...it climbs like that! Maybe waverly waster will be dry, its a 5.12a next to creatures...though water seems to seep on it.

I don't want to get your hopes up like you expect everything on the north side to be so dry since its often said its a great wet day crag.

Also, cathy's creek is way off the beaten path climbing...its somewhat difficult to even find and last time I was out there (after a couple days of rain incidentally) it was really wet and dirty/cob webby/slimy looking.

Blake Cash wrote:So there are two different opinions here...which is it? I think we're gonna go regardless and just be prepared to hike around and see the area (never been before). Hopefully can get a couple of pitches in. Thanks!

I would say go for it. I practically lived @ camp squalor on the north side one summer about 10 years ago.I would also suggest getting there early to avoid afternoon rains (often times not even in the forecast). Look @ your profile you should be fine on the stuff that stays dry, just none of it will take you to the summit. There's plenty there to have fun on, even after the worst of storms in my experience. If you don't have a guide book check out Looking Glass out fitters in Brevard.

Check else where for guide books...LGO closed this past week. A huge loss for the climbing community, as it was a great place to get gear, hang out and be. Best to all who head that way, but now come to Brevard prepared.

Was there this evening myself... Surprisingly, the water level has been low this week (meaning that cornflake crack and the usual wet stuff should be dry) but it had just rained a little before I arrived, so some other things were wet.

Two types of wetness to deal with at LG: 1. seepage, 2. active rain. Some of the sheltered (from rain) routes seep for days, and some of the non-sheltered routes dry fast but are exposed to the rain when it does come (and it will). Most of the "classics" are exposed. However, Cornflake suffers from being in both categories.

Basically, what I'm saying is that you will get wet, it is a rain forest after all. Just bring a rain jacket and you'll be fine.

before you get on your high horse it may behoove you to take a cursory look at someones tick list to get a feel for how well they know the area before contradicting their beta, suggest that the only route for a 5.13 climber is creatures of waste, and perhaps just do so in a less prickish manner.

Blake:
There will be wetness...its raining afterall. There are however a number of routes that stay dry or will have the first 15-20 feet of wet. Cornflake is an awesome route, gauge how wet by looking at the first 15 feet (middle section will be dry but P2 runs water. The womb is almost always wet to some degree. Also you may also look into check out glass menagerie as the first four pitches will be dry (minus the first 35 feet of P1). The Seal stays dry - the first 15 feet may be wet. Waste Not can be set up as TR having warmed up on IA or led with a few small pieces and draws. Cant say much for extra crimpy chicken and the routes climbers right of GM. You may also want to check out Kool Aid Acid Test over by the nose area-- it dries quickly as water usually runnels onto the sport route adjacent to it. Its also probably the best technical dihedral in the state if not east coast granite from the little bit i've managed to work through.

Cathey's creek:
Seeps after prolonged rain, but can be climbed in a downpour. Its a 10 minute walk from the road for mediocre at best cragging. Good fun if the day's shot though and not exactly off the beaten path.

Brer rabbits recommendation of SW corner of whitesides is good - a couple routes stay dry under the big roof if your looking to branch out from the brevard area. Whitesides in general dries very quickly but may want a cashiers local to chime in with real time conditions.

Have a fun trip. you can make the best of it. Sadly none of us will enjoy sitting around Phil's shop anymore. An end of an era - to be dramatic about it.

Cheers
Tzlil

Blake Cash wrote:So there are two different opinions here...which is it? I think we're gonna go regardless and just be prepared to hike around and see the area (never been before). Hopefully can get a couple of pitches in. Thanks!

No, just one opinion and some whinning. I will actually be at the nface today. Maybe we will see each other and i can give you some beta on nface or cathy's. The grades your climbing you will definitely like cathy's for a few visits. Pretty easy to find if you have a little help with the trailhead. Checked the monthly for brevard. They havent had significant rain fall since last week. So cathy's shouldnt be seeping. The only thing to watch for is the dew point, which we were close to this morning. Hopefully it is relatively windy like it can be at the nface and any moisture will be blown away.

Thanks guys. Doesn't seem too bad out there right now (not as bad as Chattanooga is right now). Looking forward to getting back on granite and hiking around! Thanks for all the information. Now for the big one: where to eat? Breakfast? Dinner?

Do yourself a solid and get a blackberry cobbler and some BBQ at Hawg Wild just after you exit the park. No beer sold there, though, which can be a bummer.

So how were conditions? Did it dry out a little? I was smoking my bong after one hour of ARC on my home wall when that massive tstorm ripped through. Im only 15 mins away so I assumed lg got hit?

Dry all day. Got in 6 pitches which was awesome. It did storm 2x, but the 2nd one blew in some nice air and stirred things up a little which felt great. Can't wait to go back! Wanna say thanks to Tom for the beta yesterday and for sharing his table with us at Oskar Blues last night! I'll definitely give you a shout when we come again, which will hopefully be really soon.

Samadhi, I'll trade you my bong rips for your belays.

^sure!

Blake Cash wrote:Dry all day. Got in 6 pitches which was awesome. It did storm 2x, but the 2nd one blew in some nice air and stirred things up a little which felt great. Can't wait to go back! Wanna say thanks to Tom for the beta yesterday and for sharing his table with us at Oskar Blues last night! I'll definitely give you a shout when we come again, which will hopefully be really soon.

what did you end up getting on???

5.samadhi wrote:^sure! what did you end up getting on???

looking for rainy day beta...priceless ;)

why would I need beta from somebody that lives out of town? I live 15 minutes from the crag and do my trail running out there frequently :D

I was being....friendly, and wanting to hear about his awesome sends....if that makes sense to you... :/

5.samadhi wrote:why would I need beta from somebody that lives out of town? I live 15 minutes from the crag and do my trail running out there frequently :D I was being....friendly, and wanting to hear about his awesome sends....if that makes sense to you... :/

The conditions were almost exactly as I said they would be, but maybe a little better. The wind blew the dew out pretty early. I couldn't believe that Corn Flake was completely dry, but it was. So the forest hasn't seen a significant amount of rain in a while, which agreed with the weather.com history of Brevard this month. A few quick showers moved through, but everything from Invisible to the Glass stayed dry. We warmed up on the Womb, then led the Seal and Killer Whales before the rain moved in. Then retreated to the dry stuff for the rest of the day.

It is not a big deal to disagree with someone, but be tactful about it. Saying "no offense" doesn't give you immunity to say something offensive right afterwards, stoned or not. I don't have some mystery profile, Andy. I have been climbing at the North Face for over 6 years. I don't record repeats of ascents, but those routes on the North Face are my summer rain default climbs. If I don't know something, I just defer to Nathan, who has probably climbed at the North Face more than anyone in the SE. The crazy thing is that I live "out of town". With climbing I have learned over the years that there will always be someone stronger or more knowledgeable, unless it's Paco.

great day at the north side today! Best day this summer for sure. Cool and windy.

Got to get on creatures, waverly, and the womb. Great routes.