training while injured

Had surgery on my miniscus three weeks ago today... still pretty sore, and pretty scared to boulder high in fear of falling on it. 4x4's are out... i can traverse just fine so training enduro is no problem... i am wondering what i can do to keep up on power and power/enduro... any ideas?

hangboard repeaters and max hangs are an option. They seem boring but if you motivate yourself they actually become kinda fun in a masochistic "I'm getting stronger" kinda way.

ymmv!

Zenetopia, I'm not sure how badly you tore your meniscus, but I tore mine in May 2012, had two surgeries since, and am waiting for a transplant now. It's one of the worst my first surgeon had seen. Go me, right?

About a month after my first surgery I was alright to climb, a little stiff and hard to dropknee, and landing hard was out of the question. After about two months I started bouldering outside, but nothing hard that was also high. During that whole time I did do some hangboarding, but did find it hard to motivate as well.

After my second surgery I was back in the gym in three weeks! I did ARC laps on TR several days a week. Those definitely helped me get my range of motion back, then I transferred right back into a regular training and climbing routine. I'm now eight months out and the only complications I have are because it's torn so badly it actually doesn't cushion the joint enough so it swells and is a general pain in the ass, but I still climb inside 3 days a week, and outside 2 days a week. I've redpointed both my hardest sport climbs and boulders this season, so it's certainly possible to come back even stronger with some training.

I would consider doing some hangboarding, repeaters for strength, tweak those times/reps/sets for some power training, and in two months you should be completely back on your feet (and knees). Repeaters can actually be tweaked for strength, power, or power endurance depending on the number of reps, rest time and hang times.

Best of luck, it does get better!

Thanks for the responses... yeah, i have to be careful with any dropknee type motions (that is how i injured it)... the tear was bad enough to where he could not repair it... so just had to cut a lot of it out and clean it up... i will give your suggestions a go... thanks again!!

BRENDAN: do you find it beneficial (logically nor not - perhaps it is for peace of mind) to continue to clime with a brace on, or is that detrimental to the recovery process?

Hi Zenetopia,

What sort of repair did they do during your surgery? Did they remove the damaged section or repair it? How long after surgery were you able to be mobile/start climbing? I have been diagnosed with a torn medial meniscus in both knees (sigh) and am seeing a surgeon tomorrow regarding a date for surgery. I know everyone is different, but I'm curious regardless :)

Good luck with your recovery!

G

It was too damaged to repair. They ended up removing the damaged section, which was about half. I was able to hobble out of the hospital with crutches and some help. Surgery was three weeks ago yesterday, and i am doing some climbing, although on certain moves, like drop knees and high steps i have to back off from... had they been able to repair it (which was the plan, but didn't work out that way) i was going to be laid up for awhile. Wasn't going to be able to weight it at all for four weeks, and then was looking at a 4-6 month rehab period. So depending on your out look (and fitness level, IE, overweight and such) the removing of it was a better scenario for me.... could come with problems later though, now that it is bone on bone. Good luck!! Try not to get frustrated (i sure am!! ha)... take it in stride...

I've torn both menicus, once from running and the other in a bouldering fall.

Tlk to your doctor ad explain the forces that you'll be putting on it.

For me on both knees, I was biking within 6 days after surgery, top roping (as not to potentially risk injuring it) by climbing routes with only one leg (on harder routes its a good core workout)....Was leading fairly hard trad routes (.12ish trad routes) within 6 weeks.

Wish my latest injury was so easy :-(