Hand/Fist Cracks in the Gunks NY

haha i totally stand corrected... i too though it was named after KN.

As for the Grand Wall of China... no thanks. No desire break rules and bolt or piss on anyone's trad parade! Besides I don't find 9000ft of traversing of much interest.

It's like those stupid human tricks, no matter how many times you do it or how long you do it for, it still just seems stupid. It does fit the bill for mentally instability though!

They're maybe a little harder than it sounds like you're looking for, but Lost City Crack (ask for directions at Rock and Snow, 5.10-), and Last Frontier (at the Trapps, 5.10) might fit the bill.
If you're not limited to the Gunks, think about the Beer Wall or Spider's Web in Keene Valley (3 hour drive North).

Jennifer Wolken wrote: Where is this? Could not find on MP. Thanks for all the suggestions! Ant's Line looks fabulous!!

There is no guidebook of any sort for Lost City and the climbs do not appear in the MountainProj database. Mohonk Preserve (the entity that owns all the land of "The Gunks") has requested that the area stay undocumented and the climbing community has honored that request. That said, it's certainly not a secret. Park at the Coxing parking lot and then ask around. Once you find the cliff, it will be pretty obvious which climb is the splitter crack.

To the OP, tho Persistence is mostly a crack climb (at least for your hands), I do not think you want to tackle it this trip. Most people, incl me, feel that it is hard for the grade at .11+ with the first move being real hard. The pump and difficulty does not stop there, hence the name.
I think if you are up for the challenge, Ant's Line is a good one for you. That is why I mentioned it. I miss The Gunks!

Go to Poko;)

Ringwraith (5.10) at Skytop. Far and away the best hand jamming in the Gunks IME.

One little problem - climbing at Skytop is restricted to guided outings arranged through the Mohonk Mtn. Hose. It's close to $400/day for a single client + guide.

How bad do you want this?

Jennifer Wolken wrote:I'm visiting the Gunks over Labor Day. Anyone have some good recommendations for hand-to-fist size cracks.? Preferably easy-to-moderate cracks that'll take BD 1-3 size cams. So far, a lot of what I've seen in the beta photos are finger cracks, and they look shallow! Any advice would be appreciated.

Depending on what your definition is of "moderate" is, but Sonja, 5.10a/b on the Mental Block is a pure hand/jamb crack for the full length of the route. It can be led or TR'd without trouble.

aside from persistence at lost city there is lost city crack and black crack, and another 9ish hand crack a little further left of those two. plus great routes left right and in between.

so that's 3-4 in LC, and another handful in the trapps and the nears, out of about 1000 routes... seriously, visiting the gunks with the agenda of getting on vert cracks is to miss what makes the gunks so great. just get on whatever classics you can that are within your ability and you will have a blast.

It's short, but Low Exposure (#3 BD cams) fits your query.

Nick Goldsmith wrote:Go to Poko;)

Right, if you really need a crack to climb, head up to the Adirondacks -- like everything here for example

Dan Flynn wrote: Right, if you really need a crack to climb, head up to the Adirondacks -- like everything here for example

EXACTLY what I was going to post.

If they are looking for moderats Gamesmanship and sting come to mind...

lucander wrote:It's short, but Low Exposure (#3 BD cams) fits your query.

Exactly what I was going to suggest. Of course it is a ridiculous little route, and a sandbag at 10+, but who cares. If The Dangler is long enough to get all those stars, then so is Low E!

Cheers,

GO

Google moab desert adventures splitter camp. They will take you to a mystical valley where you will find what you seek.
Then get back to enjoying all the totally awesome climbing that isn't crack climbing in the Gunks!

Don't think anyone has mentioned the last pitch of Shockleys Ceiling. Not to be missed! Enjoy!

just traverse. hand cracks for miles (literally)

Optimistic wrote:Google moab desert adventures splitter camp. They will take you to a mystical valley where you will find what you seek. Then get back to enjoying all the totally awesome climbing that isn't crack climbing in the Gunks!

Already have a trip planned in November to Indian Creek!

Jennifer Wolken wrote: Already have a trip planned in November to Indian Creek!

Have you been there before? So awesome!

Not sure if anyone said Something Interesting already? A long crack anyway, but not hand/fist.

SI is a great climb at the grade especially if you climb to the GT Ledge in a single pitch, linking "P1" and "P2". Try to not place your entire rack in the first 60 feet of the climb! :). It can be safety protected to the GT without creating heinous drag with sensible placements and good rope management. Go for it!!